www.zxrworld.co.uk

Hi Guys,

Getting really sick of my chain looking manky as hell, and throwing lube ALL over my rear wheel. Anybody recommend a good lube/wax/oil that will not fling, and will last a while? (Any techniques to reduce fling etc will be appreciated also)

And I was wondering what sort of accel increase and top end decrease I could expect from changing sprockets? (1 down at front, 2 up on back is the norm, isnt it?)

Cheers

I hate to say it but for daily road use best way to look after your chain AND keep it looking new and shiny is an automatic oiler like Scotoiler or simliar.
Never found a spary on lube that didn't fling off in fact I often refer to chain lube as "chain fling"

Having said that the best I've used was Motul chain lube................very thin when first sprayed but soon gets very very tacky...............I know with my race bikes that constant cleaning is the only way to keep the chain fling mess under control.

Mostly the lube I use is anything that I can get for free.................

i use old car diesel oil 10w40 with my loobman. it drips every time I park it. also flings oil all over the wheels. but who cares it does it's job, a messy one at that.

Wurth Dry Chain Lube does exactly what it says on the tin!

The problem is, it's so good that you don't even know for sure when you've done the whole chain because it dries in about 5 seconds. I'm not sure I trust it in regards of how long it protects for...

The best compromise I've found so far is Gold Chain Wax (i think Yoshimoto make it?).

a scottoiler is good, people moan cos it causes fling but thats only because they havent adjusted the flow properly. One of those set up with the dual injector kit will have your chain lasting thousands and thousands of miles. I had one on my first ZXR and the chain on that had been on for nearly 10k miles and will still good.

Okies.

Found out last night that the easiest way to get the fling off my wheels was WD-40 - Comes off in bloody seconds! So I will stick to the FUCHS chain lube stuff I have been using, and just WD-40 my wheels. lol

Anybody any recommendations / advice as to what to expect with a sprocket change to accell?

Cheers

Wabby wrote:Okies.

Found out last night that the easiest way to get the fling off my wheels was WD-40 - Comes off in bloody seconds! So I will stick to the FUCHS chain lube stuff I have been using, and just WD-40 my wheels. lol

Anybody any recommendations / advice as to what to expect with a sprocket change to accell?

Cheers

Surely petrol's better?

I've never actually tried properly cleaning my rear wheel - I just try and keep it at a managable level of filthiness! I have heard loads about the WD40 method so maybe I'll give it a try (as a one off).

Jamz wrote:

Wabby wrote:Okies.

Found out last night that the easiest way to get the fling off my wheels was WD-40 - Comes off in bloody seconds! So I will stick to the FUCHS chain lube stuff I have been using, and just WD-40 my wheels. lol

Anybody any recommendations / advice as to what to expect with a sprocket change to accell?

Cheers

Surely petrol's better?

I've never actually tried properly cleaning my rear wheel - I just try and keep it at a managable level of filthiness! I have heard loads about the WD40 method so maybe I'll give it a try (as a one off).

Put it this way, it removed 1/2" thick lube residue from the chain guard and front sprocket cover, in seconds. Just had to wipe off like wiping up a spill.

Tis great stuff

Diesel's meant to be good, and so is kerosene (i'snt wd40 similar to kerosene?)

In fact, the manual mentions both these but it says not to use petrol on o-ring chains

Jamz wrote:Wurth Dry Chain Lube does exactly what it says on the tin!

+1 I've tried loads of waxes, lubes and this is easily the cleanest.

To be honest, you're not meant to coat the chain in lube and walk off, you're meant to clean it first, then lube it and wipe off excess! It's shouldn't be dripping.
I used to clean mine every 250km or every long ride.

Buy yourself a gold DID x-ring chain - they cost about £100 so you'll bloody look after it then! Worked for me! Hell I'm still cleaning it even though my bikes in pieces! lol

crushedlizard wrote:

Jamz wrote:Wurth Dry Chain Lube does exactly what it says on the tin!

+1 I've tried loads of waxes, lubes and this is easily the cleanest.

To be honest, you're not meant to coat the chain in lube and walk off, you're meant to clean it first, then lube it and wipe off excess! It's shouldn't be dripping.
I used to clean mine every 250km or every long ride.

Buy yourself a gold DID x-ring chain - they cost about £100 so you'll bloody look after it then! Worked for me! Hell I'm still cleaning it even though my bikes in pieces! lol

Yes that's another great tip - I've found that even a cheap x-ring chain will outlast the best o-ring chains!

Nobody care to comment on the sprocket recommendations?

Cheers

Wabby wrote:Nobody care to comment on the sprocket recommendations?

Cheers

Drop 1 off the front and 2 or 3 off the rear. Anything else is getting a bit silly.

Here's a pretty accurate Gearing & Speed Calculator.

To increase acceleration you want to either/or - lower number of teeth at the front / add teeth at the rear.
I think it's generally accepted that 1 tooth off the front is worth 3 extra on the rear.

Like quite a few on here, I run 14/47 with 110 links and love it. But you need earplugs on motorways and you do lose some adjustment if you like to slam your wheel right back.

crushedlizard wrote:Here's a pretty accurate Gearing & Speed Calculator.

To increase acceleration you want to either/or - lower number of teeth at the front / add teeth at the rear.
I think it's generally accepted that 1 tooth off the front is worth 3 extra on the rear.

Like quite a few on here, I run 14/47 with 110 links and love it. But you need earplugs on motorways and you do lose some adjustment if you like to slam your wheel right back.

I wear earplugs now anyhow, and the rear wheel goes where its at the right tension. lol

Will sort out 14/47 then

Cheers