zxr lost key!!!

bikerjodie · Post by **bikerjodie** » Tue Oct 24, 2006 11:49 pm

Hi Guys and Girls,

I'm new to the site and already i'm after your expertise!!

I've bought an L1 zxr400 and got it cheap as the girl had lost the key for it!! (was i daft buying it?)

...anyway... i have since changed the ignition and now want to change the petrol cap. Can anyone tell me how to get the old one out? Do i drill it out or is there an easier way? Also, if i do have to drill it how do i keep the remnants of the drilling abusing my tank?

Please don't feel that you're patronising me by explaining indepth, any help that gets it done is more than welcome.

I'll look forward to your wisdom.

me

CarneyUK · Post by **CarneyUK** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:55 am

My ZXR has allen key bolts that hold the petrol cap on. I'm sure you should be able to get the complete cap and fitting and replace the old one without drilling.

Hope this helps

BTW there is a help section for bike problems at the bottom of the forum list. I know Baz won't mind coz you are new

Post by **cargo** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:46 am

The petrol cap even with all the bolts removed will not come off the tank cos the catch in the cap is caught on the tank itself.

To be honest you should have taken your original ignition switch to a good locksmith who would have made a key to fit

bikerjodie · Post by **bikerjodie** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 12:17 pm

Yeah?

I phoned Kawasaki and they said that couldn't be done... that's why i purchased a new lock set!!

Anyway, i now have the problem of having a new petrol cap (with all the bolts removed) and it's still firmly in place (i thought this would be easy)
If i'm still in the same position tomorrow i'll drill out the barrel but this leaves problems within the tank from cuttings from the drill!!!

I should have let the garage do the whole lot!!!

Me

Gemini · Post by **Gemini** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 12:38 pm

kawasaki would have said that, they wanted to sell you a new part

CarneyUK · Post by **CarneyUK** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 2:25 pm

cargo wrote:The petrol cap even with all the bolts removed will not come off the tank cos the catch in the cap is caught on the tank itself.

Never new that, but I should have thought of that coz people could undo the bolts and nick your petrol with no key, I'll get my jacket

Post by **cargo** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 3:06 pm

bikerjodie wrote:Yeah?

I phoned Kawasaki and they said that couldn't be done... that's why i purchased a new lock set!!

Anyway, i now have the problem of having a new petrol cap (with all the bolts removed) and it's still firmly in place (i thought this would be easy)
If i'm still in the same position tomorrow i'll drill out the barrel but this leaves problems within the tank from cuttings from the drill!!!

I should have let the garage do the whole lot!!!

Me

If you plan to replace the fuel cap then it can be opened and therfore removed by forcing the lock use a screwdriver. This will destroy the barrel of the lock and bits will come free but eventually you'll get it open and without bits getting in the tank.
One of my race bike has the barrel of the lock removed and is opened and closed useing a screwdriver.
As someone else said of course Kawasaki told you a key could not be made to fit you old locks. Believe me a good locksmith can If you want to send me you old ignition I know a locksmith who will make a key to fit.
And you won't need a new fuel cap unless of course you've already got one.

bikerjodie · Post by **bikerjodie** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 7:58 pm

Thanks Cargo,

I did as you've suggested and took the barrel out, it exposed an indented shape that a screwdriver fitted into and turned thus unlocking the existing petrol cap!! The new one's in place although i'm feeling a little 'conned' by Kawasaki.

I have the old ignition barrel and now the petrol cap (broken). I wish i had joined this site before panicking and buying the items.

Again thanks for your help and the offer of helping to get a key cut (think the parts i have are useless now).

I now have the problem of trying to change the seat lock at the back, only the seat is in place and i can't get it off nor the rear fairing to get to the little bugger!!

Have you any ideas on this Cargo?

Thanks again

Jodie

Post by **masterofinsanity** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:33 pm

you don't need a key to remove the back seat do you jamz??

put your hand up the left hand side rear cover and you can feel a cable, grab it and give it a good pull

bikerjodie · Post by **bikerjodie** » Wed Oct 25, 2006 9:33 pm

thanks Sanity,

i'll try that tomorrow and keep you informed. I did see the cable and just pulled lightly on it but nothing happened but tomorrow i'll go for it good and proper.

Thanks again

Jodie

Post by **cargo** » Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:03 am

Well done so far bikerjodie.

Now I've got a seat lock mechinisim in my hand in front of me right now in fact I think I've got another one somewhere.

On the back of the lock where the key goes there is a 4 digit number I'm prepared to bet that this is the key mumber. This is easy removed from the bike just 2 crosss head screws hold it on take them out turn it over and you should see the number.

Hey presto Mr Kawasaki should be able to supply a key or am I being stupid again ?

beatrootboy · Post by **beatrootboy** » Fri Oct 27, 2006 1:19 pm

i think your spot on cargo

bikerjodie · Post by **bikerjodie** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 6:51 pm

Thanks guys,

I got the seat lock changed, then took off the old exhaust (having prepared it for a few days by smothering the bolts in w.d.)...anyway, was putting on the new stainless steel exhaust and managed to evertighten a bold and sheared it!!! :smt013 I'm thinking it can be tight enough with the one on it until it causes further problems (guess you're getting the impatience in me!).

To cut along story short, put the bike back together and tried to start it... it's not catching/firing.... so i've purchased iridium spark plugs to put in tomorrow.

Can anyone suggest what else it could be if it doesn't start after this? What does the regulator or rectifier do, does this need changed?

I've got my calipers to put back on the bike now and bleed the system.... does anyone have any help about how to bleed the system (front only)?

I'm really making a big thing of this aren't i??

Jodie

Post by **masterofinsanity** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 9:31 pm

before you change them plugs pull the ht leads off 1 by 1 and using a new plug check for sparks then you will know if its the old plugs or your leads or something else that might be failing.

bikerjodie · Post by **bikerjodie** » Sun Oct 29, 2006 6:32 pm

Got it started!!!!!!!!!!!!!

....then the idling was eratic... left it to run until it heated up but it never got to idling properly. It's all over the place (think it may be the carbs now needing cleaned and set, which i am not able to do).

Still got the problem of the calipers though, can't get the pistons to go back in to enable me to put in the new brake pads!! Then i have to bleed them (which i don't know how to do) before i can set on a journey to a garage to get the carbs cleaned).

...still, it's running and i'm getting happier about it.

I'll take the calipers into my work tomorrow and see if one of the guys can help put the pistons back in!!

I'll let you know what happens but any help with bleeding the brakes and correcting me about the eratic idling would be great!

Jodie