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setting l3 idle

Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 6:53 pm
by thomp1983
hi having now fixed the air leak causing my hanging revs problem i now need to make sure the idle is set properly. should the bike idle properly with the remote knob completely wound out and just set by the screws on the bottom of the carb or does the remote knob need to be used aswell? im not sure of the current settings so will likely set them back to factory with the remote knob off and go from there and check it's correct using a colortune ive go coming monday but any advice would be helpful

cheers
chris

Re: setting l3 idle

Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:13 pm
by Tirpitz
No, it should idle so low it stalls with the idle adjuster screwed right out so something is wrong there. Have you got the recommended couple of mm slack in the throttle cable? Because if the throttle cable is still under tension when the twist grip is released then that will be pulling the carbs open. So make sure that isn't the problem. The correct idle speed is 1250rpm, set with the remote adjuster.

It's possible that your carburation is all out seeing as it has been Dynojetted plus it has an after market can on it. If it's a race can that's more likely. So you may need to get all that sorted. A good dyno run won't cost much and will tell you what's wrong.

Re: setting l3 idle

Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:28 pm
by thomp1983
the bike does stall with the remote knob out but obviously i didn't know if that was right or wrong, i will set it to 1250rpm when warm with the remote knob rebalance the carbs again then see what is happening on each cylinder at idle when the colortune arrives. the bike was dyno'd when the dynojet needles were fitted but that was before my ownership and ive had the rev hanging issue due to air leaks so wanted to go round and check everything else is ok now that's fixed

chris