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its the trying to get panels AND painted bit that i dout...

if you've got time most of it dosent look to hard to sort!

Well I think I have found out why the fuelling is all over the place.

The carb drain plugs (bottom of float bowl) are leaking fuel even when done up fully.

Must be the source of the air leak!

Explains why adjusting the idle mix screws isnt solving the surging.

Grr.

Hopefully just needs some o-rings ..

rene wrote:its the trying to get panels AND painted bit that i dout...

if you've got time most of it dosent look to hard to sort!

Already got some panels ..

All differet colours mind you but at least they make a set.

The left hand one has melted somewhere and been patched the right is split.

well i guess your all sorted then :smt013

Have you checked your floats arent sticking ?

rene wrote:well i guess your all sorted then :smt013

Have you checked your floats arent sticking ?

Yeah they're ok ..

I just soldered the holes up and its much better.

Still surging a little but nowhere near as bad.

I reckon another half turn out on the idle mix to 3 turns will do it.

Having this issue because when we ported the head we also enlarged the intakes quite a bit ..

I really should get a bigger pilot jet but I'm too tight.

Yay fixed the fuelling.

Made some shims for the needles to give it a bit more umpf in the mid range:



Thats basically made from a plastic milk carton and adds 1.1mm to the needle height.

Which has given the bike considerably more go - it was running very lean on the ported and enlarged intakes.

Also plugged all the holes down below around the drain screws with silicon and solder.

Idle screw is now a whopping 3.5turns out (!) but it idles and revs freely.

Sorted.

Now onto the starting issue ...

bloody hell thats a bodge and a haf lol nice work really good idea!

Ok in the end it was 4 turns out ..

All is well.

Now I think I am going to fall down trying to find this electrical fault.

The reg/rect is getting very hot, which would suggest a short somewhere.

The starter motor is turning over pretty slowly even on full battery.

The charging circuit is working fine, 14.5v at 2, 000 rpm etc

The issue must be in the starter circuit

The rectifier will get hot, thats why its got cooling fins on it.

Ok been trying to find the problem with the hot starting.

TBH the starter sounds lazy even when cold and on a full battery so I starter by checking the battery - a good 12.6v

Then I checked the starter relay and at the live end its getting 12.5v, again ok.

Checked the cable that connects the starter relay to the starter motor for breaks:



That seems ok ..

So the starter relay is working and the starter motor is getting 10.8v+ fairly consistently.

Until the bike gets hot, when the voltage drops right off.

I thought since the bike is new to me I'd dissect the starter motor anyway and have a look:





















Brushes are mint:

Service limit is 3.5mm, standard is 7.0mm. This motor is as-new.





Again perfect ..

Checking the resistance ..



OK



OK



OK

Summary?

The starter motor is practically new, is obviously a replacement or refurb or has never been used for more than a few thousand miles ..

Its hardly worn at all, in some cases, literally not at all.

The issue must be electrical so the next stop is the loom!

Since I was in the shed due to rain, I decided to strip the clutch as well in preperation for getting the basket bearing changed next week ..



You can't see it in the picture but the basket literally tilts 30 degrees on the bearing - its utterly fecked.

I'm waiting for my clutch holding tool to arrive off ebay ..

More to come here.

I also am expecting a flywheel from another ebayer to replace the cracked one on the engine.

nice one mate keep us updated on that electrical gremlin!

wish i had a digital mesure thing (forgten the name)

the way i get around the clutch tool is if you put one of the bolts that holds the clutch caseon in then wedge a screw driver bettween the screw and the teeth holds it fine!

admitadly you normaly need 2 people to do this. Get some EBC race friction plates while you've got it striped trust me it makes a world of diffrence!

rene wrote:wish i had a digital mesure thing (forgten the name)

a vernier they are about a fiver nowadays, when i bought mine about 15 years ago they were £90

i've got one older than that....most of my tools are hand be downs from my dad so its about 30 odd years old lol its a nightmere trying to get a good mesurement off it!