www.zxrworld.co.uk

Can't you go to the DVLA office in Bournemouth and get it sorted there and then? I've dealt with them before and there normally really helpful!

Hope you get it sorted soon mate as your missing out on all this nice weather!

rossco111 wrote:Can't you go to the DVLA office in Bournemouth and get it sorted there and then? I've dealt with them before and there normally really helpful!

Hope you get it sorted soon mate as your missing out on all this nice weather!

Trouble is it's just getting there, what with work and everything.
I'll just have to wait it out, hopefully won't be too much longer.
Gives me more time to sort my bike out

I've just re read your post from earlier when you mentioned seeing the bike at gr sports bikes, I must have miss read it lol
Your right though that was the bike they had there, she is now my most treasured possession

I'm looking to replace the green tail.
Found the 2 side panels that match my paint job but they are from an L
I'm going to make it my mission to get them to fit

Today was the day I was meant to be doing my cbt, yesterday was meant to be my theory
Sad times, the weathers been amazing as well.
No doubt it'll be raining by the time I get a test, damn you dvla

Dont fret, you'll have it soon enough.

On the positive side, you would be sweating your nuts off doing a cbt today - all that sitting/standing/pootling around in full gear would be hot work.

Very true lol, it's giving me more time to get my bike together but it's still heartbreaking, another 6 days and I would have been doing mod1

Right then so quick update
My licence finally turned up the end of last week and I've got my theory booked on Thursday.
Got to ring the riding school with my theory certificate number and they will book me straight in for training and mod1 so things are starting to come together,
Still might just be on the road by the end of the month if all goes well

If your going to start playing with your bike (oi oi!) and thinking of modding then just look at the basics, carb balance, valve clearances, oil change etc. When I got my bike I thought it was awesome, then went through it and sorted everything I could, feels 10 times better after a few 30 minute jobs

ross46 wrote:If your going to start playing with your bike (oi oi!) and thinking of modding then just look at the basics, carb balance, valve clearances, oil change etc. When I got my bike I thought it was awesome, then went through it and sorted everything I could, feels 10 times better after a few 30 minute jobs

To be honest I won't be doing much to it except the basics for now.

So far I've put a new set of plugs in, de rusted the fuel tank and fitted a new fuel filler cap because the old one didn't seal properly.
I've also cleaned and re oiled the air filter
Got her running for the first time in weeks yesterday, let her get up to temperature and the fan kicked in.
I had planned on doing a compression test yesterday when I had the plugs out but it turns out the kit I bought doesn't have the right size socket to fit in the plug hole

I have a new length of ht wire to fit next time the tank comes off, at the same time I'll do a coolant change.
I am tempted to do the stick coil mod but that is on the back burner for now
Got a battery charger with a permanent cable fitted as well

An oil change is on the agenda but first I want to flush the fuel system through with redex or wurth carb cleaner that somebody mentioned.
Then I'll work on the bottom half of the engine
My plan is to drain the oil and add some cheap oil with some of that engine flush, get it up to temperature then drain and add new oil and filter.

As for the carb balancing and clearances, I want to get used to riding the bike before I do anything like that, then I should be able to detect any problems.
I have a feeling the cam chain probably needs changing as well

I've been trying to identify my bike, I read through the thread showing all the cdi's and all the ones mentioned for h models are different from mine.
Mines the black sticker with a z on it, I'm guessing its because its an import??
And restricted??
I did have a photo but I've taken all my photos off my phone and forgot to post sooner lol
My speedo is in kph, rather than messing around with the clocks or cdi I'm just going to get one of those mechanical things to go on the speedo cable,
2 birds with one stone, mph speedo and a de restricted bike, I guess it still won't rev to 14k but I'm not that fussed

One more job I've got to do is wire up a flashing brake light, ordered one off eBay, it just fits into the existing wires I think, when that turns up I'm going to town on the back lights, they are in a right state at the moment, bare wires, shoddy joins, there's even 2 wires soldered together with no protection just sat there bare wire waiting to short out on something.
Going to strip it all out and replace with new wire

I was planning on overhauling the front brakes but my price list came to in excess of £500 so that can wait, the discs will need replacing come next mot

I think that's about the jist of it, I'll start a thread up for my bike when I've done a bit more to it

Sounds like a good plan, if you want your carbs really clean send them to banner on here and he can sonicate them, ive seen his, look nice! Also I dont think you need to put any new oil in, I just used the flush stuff on my oil on Tuesday and put a new clutch in, after draining the oil I looked in the engine and it looked fine, might just be chucking money down the drain, but if you do plan to, dont put car oil in, it won't like it

ross46 wrote:Sounds like a good plan, if you want your carbs really clean send them to banner on here and he can sonicate them, ive seen his, look nice! Also I dont think you need to put any new oil in, I just used the flush stuff on my oil on Tuesday and put a new clutch in, after draining the oil I looked in the engine and it looked fine, might just be chucking money down the drain, but if you do plan to, dont put car oil in, it won't like it

Thanks
I only say about the cheap oil because I have read about people saying flush twice with oil so thought I would do that to get it really clean, my filter is rusty on the outside so doubt that's been changed in a while, the oil looks quite clean though so might not be too bad.

Yeah I read about people putting car oil in and making the clutch slip and things
Am I right in thinking that i can use any 10w 40 semi synthetic oil
if so I could use this as a cheap flush oil, only £12 for 5L Then I'll put some decent oil and new filter in

Hmmmmm I didn't think about the clutch might pay to slip a new one in while the oil is drained.
I'll get a price list together, might as well get new clutch springs while I'm at it, how many friction plates?? Is there any special tools I'll need??
I will consult the fiches now
Many thanks

So far I'm thinking its
6 friction plates @ £54.73
5 metal plates @ £3.96 each
4 springs @ £10.25
And one of these clutch holders £25 So about £90 unless there is anything I've missed,
I'll put it on my to do list, still got to pay £775 for my training and test yet so money's a bit tight for a few weeks,
£250 for insurance with breakdown cover as well so that's not bad

You can make a special holder by getting someone to weld a metal plate to a bit of bar.

That's what I use any way.

tomrowley20287 wrote:You can make a special holder by getting someone to weld a metal plate to a bit of bar.

That's what I use any way.

Good idea thanks, I have metal and I have a welder so happy days.
That'll save some money.
Thanks

@vaughn - why do you want a clutch holding tool?

you dont need it to replace the clutch plates, you only need it if your clutch basket is grooved and needs replacing. plus the nut (at 130Nm torque!) is best removed with an airgun, so unless you have an air compressor, lines and an impact wrench you wont need the tool.

as for "other" bits, replace the clutch cable, or at least check it for damage/stretch and then lube it well, it should be able to rotate inside the housing, and move smoothly with almost no resistance...the stiffer this is, the more stiff/catchy the clutch will be...

it also sounds like you are going for EBC clutch plates and some king of aftermarket steels...suit yourself, but feel free to search for people that have been happy with them, 6x OEM clutch frictions are £71.94, and 5x OEM steels are £28.40, if you skimp, prepare to pay twice...

banner001 wrote:@vaughn - why do you want a clutch holding tool?

you dont need it to replace the clutch plates, you only need it if your clutch basket is grooved and needs replacing. plus the nut (at 130Nm torque!) is best removed with an airgun, so unless you have an air compressor, lines and an impact wrench you wont need the tool.

as for "other" bits, replace the clutch cable, or at least check it for damage/stretch and then lube it well, it should be able to rotate inside the housing, and move smoothly with almost no resistance...the stiffer this is, the more stiff/catchy the clutch will be...

it also sounds like you are going for EBC clutch plates and some king of aftermarket steels...suit yourself, but feel free to search for people that have been happy with them, 6x OEM clutch frictions are £71.94, and 5x OEM steels are £28.40, if you skimp, prepare to pay twice...

Cheers banner, ok I won't bother with the tool, it looked like I needed it when looking in the fiches.

All the prices were from wemoto and yes they are ebc, are they not very good then?? Should I stick to originals??
Ill take a look on cradleys
Ok I'll order a new cable as well,
many thanks