slipper clutch

[gar.l]

does anyone know if there is an after market slipper clutch(STM,SIGMA)etc you can buy that would fit the zxr 400L,
i know of a company that make them for fzr 400's but not zxr,maybe theres a company that do,or maybe a slipper clutch that fits a modern kwak would fit????thanks in advance.

[tk400]

All the L model zxr400's I have ever seen have slipper clutches. they are just not adjusted to slip a great deal. when you back it in hard on a corner you will feel it lock and release in an oscilating fashion. The clutch is set up using endfloat adjustment on the clutch stack. post a pic of your clutch basket components and I will tell you if it has one........Thet are actually pretty good units. KBATL (kawasaki back torque limiter) that is what that sticker was all about on the fairings......cheers

regards TK400

[THE FLUTE]

PTR CORSA do one I am just looking at getting one But a mate of mine has had his standard L model slipper modified and says it works really well And has adjustment from no engine braking at all to no slip So might do that first

[gar.l]

thanks very much lads for the replys,very informative,PTR corse on the way

cheers,gary.

[AgentOrange]

Flute.. I see this thread was started a while ago, but you mentioned your mate had his modified... who did the work and how much better was it?

[tk400]

Dont waste your money..Do it yourself. All you have to do is reduce the clutch stack thickness. the more you reduce it the more it slips. You just need to get a few of the metal clutch plates surface ground. In total start of with about 0.5 mm less in stack height. or even get 0.2 taken off old plates and you can try 0.2 , 0.4 , 0.6. You may want even more just try it. If you have a look at how the slipper works you can see that stock it doesnt lift the stack enough to release the clutch but as the clutch plates wear the slipper starts working more. But hardly anything compared to properly setup one. All they do on the SP models of 400 and 750's was to have multiple spare varied thickness plates to swap in and out. But in order to optimize heat build up in the plates they spread the reduction in thickness out over the entire stack. taking only a small amount off each plate. I think you can Buy the thinner plates. But as SP/F3 items it would be cheaper to have an old set ground.......keep me posted...cheers


regards TK400

[THE FLUTE]

Flute.. I see this thread was started a while ago, but you mentioned your mate had his modified... who did the work and how much better was it?

Not sure he says when he gets his engine back I can have a look at it and will take it to work and do mine If it works I will let you know what I did may be able to sneak a couple in and do them.

[THE FLUTE]

Dont waste your money..Do it yourself. All you have to do is reduce the clutch stack thickness. the more you reduce it the more it slips. You just need to get a few of the metal clutch plates surface ground. In total start of with about 0.5 mm less in stack height. or even get 0.2 taken off old plates and you can try 0.2 , 0.4 , 0.6. You may want even more just try it. If you have a look at how the slipper works you can see that stock it doesnt lift the stack enough to release the clutch but as the clutch plates wear the slipper starts working more. But hardly anything compared to properly setup one. All they do on the SP models of 400 and 750's was to have multiple spare varied thickness plates to swap in and out. But in order to optimize heat build up in the plates they spread the reduction in thickness out over the entire stack. taking only a small amount off each plate. I think you can Buy the thinner plates. But as SP/F3 items it would be cheaper to have an old set ground.......keep me posted...cheers


regards TK400

All sounds very time consuming and difficult Lot easier with a proper slipper clutch Had a suter in my R1 and you just change the rear spring to adjust amount of slip. Was an awesome clutch.

[tk400]

It is a propper slipper clutch....the design worked well enough for WSB zxr750 and zx7rr's. Its only a bit of surface grinding, cost you about as much as a case of beer to do at the local machine shop . for a set of spare plates. Anyway suit yourself.....

[marti]

Doesnt RMKD do one ?

[THE FLUTE]

Doesnt RMKD do one ?

Think they just modify a standard one from what I've heard

[gar.l]

Dont waste your money..Do it yourself. All you have to do is reduce the clutch stack thickness. the more you reduce it the more it slips. You just need to get a few of the metal clutch plates surface ground. In total start of with about 0.5 mm less in stack height. or even get 0.2 taken off old plates and you can try 0.2 , 0.4 , 0.6. You may want even more just try it. If you have a look at how the slipper works you can see that stock it doesnt lift the stack enough to release the clutch but as the clutch plates wear the slipper starts working more. But hardly anything compared to properly setup one. All they do on the SP models of 400 and 750's was to have multiple spare varied thickness plates to swap in and out. But in order to optimize heat build up in the plates they spread the reduction in thickness out over the entire stack. taking only a small amount off each plate. I think you can Buy the thinner plates. But as SP/F3 items it would be cheaper to have an old set ground.......keep me posted...cheers


regards TK400

ok mate,i'll hold off and give it a go at least,i'll have to wait untill i get my engine back,i found out the engine is L9,do these have the slipper system,cheers,gary.

[tk400]

Yeah they do. I will dig up the SP manual for the ZXR750 and see if I can give you more data on plate thickness for setup. See if you can dig up a set of plates to grind and then go to your local machine shop.

[Ballsout Racing]

ZXR750 setup is here: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/webzxr/zxr ... lutch.html

I'm really interested how this works out as no one I know that races as bothered with trying to set this up, so much so that I'm not even convinced that the 400Ls all came with a slipper clutch

[tk400]

Thanks for that ballsout...Saves me diggin around. I have only ever seen L's with one. I do think it conflicts with the antisquat bar on the rear brake and amplifies the oscilation effect, But cant confirm this. Does anybody have the rear brake caliper fixed to the swing arm? instead of the sqat bar. It would be interesting to do some testing with both.