Ah, it's not the voltage your battery is receiving but the amperage. On a 12Hr battery a trickle charge is 1.2 which your bikes system shouldn't go much above or it would boil the battery dry (which of course what happens when you have a fault). Putting a 8Hr at .08 trickle is going to do something to the battery or the systems over feeding it, might not be apparent on bikes that are "stop / start" as the battery is under constant load/demand but on a bike touring and running for a couple of hours and being restart warm and ran again it surely would become apparent.
A 300v shock at 1amp wont kill you but up the amp's to say 45 and your toast .
The biggest load/demand on your bike is the starter motor, then the ignition system. I don't think any 12v bike will bump start with out a battery in it even if it's flat as the system needs a buffer - that's why you need to install a battery out kit (Usually two big capacitors 3,300uf). A 6v system will start but the surges end up blowing bulbs.
Reading through the workshop manual it says the charging system doesn't kick in until 4,000 RPM. I am sure car's and bikes run what they call a "total loss" system under these specified rev's.
Switch all your electrics on while the bike is ticking over (main beam) with one set of indicators going and brake light(s) on , leave for 10-15 min's and you'll find your battery although showing over 12v will probably not have enough kick in it to start the bike when cold again.
Or, you might of experienced this one - can't get the bike to start, the battery might last about 12 attempts at spinning the engine before it gives up. Put a volt meter on it and it will still read 12+ volts but have no "kick" left in it.
It's easier to see in cars with lot's of electrical toy's - at tickover with lights on , open an electric window - they suck so much juice you'll see the lights dim easily and your rev's will drop too. Same can be done with your rear demister, that's why lot's of modern cars have auto off features on them.
Just me 2p worth
