Clutch Problem
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- Boonie
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 7:27 am
- Location: Luton, Bedfordshire
Clutch Problem
Got an issue guys and not found anything on the web to help so back to where the knowledge is (why I didn't come here straight away I'll never know, but that's another story).
Ok, when the clutch is pulled all the way in the engine is still biting, to the point where when I am stopped I find it really difficult to get the bike into neutral.
Any thoughts? I'm loathed to pay someone £200+ at a garage just to turn a knob, if you know what I mean. The bike is running fine although I do think it could do with an oil change. It's been a year since the last one, but I've only done 1500 miles this year.
Next year will be different.
Ok, when the clutch is pulled all the way in the engine is still biting, to the point where when I am stopped I find it really difficult to get the bike into neutral.
Any thoughts? I'm loathed to pay someone £200+ at a garage just to turn a knob, if you know what I mean. The bike is running fine although I do think it could do with an oil change. It's been a year since the last one, but I've only done 1500 miles this year.
Next year will be different.
Occupation: Nerd (IT), and all round do-gooder. Intersts: Public displays of indecency, oh yeah... and motorcycles. Currently have a 1994 ZXR400 & a 1998 YZF-R1.
And remember...Public ignorance is a government's best friend...!
And remember...Public ignorance is a government's best friend...!
- Jamz
- zxr400 oc member
- Posts: 2034
- Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2002 4:21 pm
- My Bike: Kawasaki ZX9-R C2
- Location: Alvechurch, Near Birmingham
- Contact:
Your clutch isn't fully engaging. Usually it's the opposite that happens, because of worn parts etc, so i'm pretty certain that all you'll have to do is adjust the clutch cable so that it engages sooner!
Never done it myself, but i gather it is literally just turning the knob on the bars, or if that's all out of adjustment possibly at the other end of the cable.
If i'm right then it's definatly something you can do yourself - in fact any half-decent garage should do it for you for free within about 2 mins flat.
Never done it myself, but i gather it is literally just turning the knob on the bars, or if that's all out of adjustment possibly at the other end of the cable.
If i'm right then it's definatly something you can do yourself - in fact any half-decent garage should do it for you for free within about 2 mins flat.
- SimonH
- Posts: 57
- Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2002 11:39 am
- My Bike: tomos moped
- Location: sunny Bournemouth
- Contact:
- Boonie
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 7:27 am
- Location: Luton, Bedfordshire
I had a look at this when I got home. There seems to be 2 things which affect the clutch lever.
1) The dial with the number effectively seems to adjust how far out the clutch lever sits. I have small hands... (no comments please) ; )... so I need the lever fairly close in. This was however probably too far in and can be let out a little. If this is done, does that mean that I will be pulling more on the cable or is this purely an adjustment of the lever?
2) The two screw type bits that the cable comes out of. I can turn this so that it comes further out of the lever housing, and then turn the larger of the screw fittings to secure the first in place. This has the effect of not allowing the metal sheath around the clutch cable to move as much. I am assuming therefore that I will then be pulling on the clutch cable more as the sheath stops moving earlier?
Does this make sense? I do not know.
: )
1) The dial with the number effectively seems to adjust how far out the clutch lever sits. I have small hands... (no comments please) ; )... so I need the lever fairly close in. This was however probably too far in and can be let out a little. If this is done, does that mean that I will be pulling more on the cable or is this purely an adjustment of the lever?
2) The two screw type bits that the cable comes out of. I can turn this so that it comes further out of the lever housing, and then turn the larger of the screw fittings to secure the first in place. This has the effect of not allowing the metal sheath around the clutch cable to move as much. I am assuming therefore that I will then be pulling on the clutch cable more as the sheath stops moving earlier?
Does this make sense? I do not know.
: )
Occupation: Nerd (IT), and all round do-gooder. Intersts: Public displays of indecency, oh yeah... and motorcycles. Currently have a 1994 ZXR400 & a 1998 YZF-R1.
And remember...Public ignorance is a government's best friend...!
And remember...Public ignorance is a government's best friend...!
- RedexRobB
- Site Admin
- Posts: 7212
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 7:37 pm
- My Bike: ZXR400L3
- Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
lol, here goes
If you adjust the clutch lever position so that it goes further out, that will allow the clutch to engage more, as the lever wont hit the bar sooner and you will have pulled the cable that little bit further
Adjusting the cable adjuster, or the two screw type bits , will adjust the tension on the cable. If you screw it out it effectively makes the cable sheath shorter taking out any play. Ideally you only want about 2mm play at the pivot of the lever where the gap opens up till the cable starts to pull, or about 10mm play at the end of the lever. If theres still loads of play in the cable, you'll need to take the side panel off and change the adjustment underneath the clutch. While your at it, wind the cable adjuster in most of the way (not all the way) and then change the adjuster underneath the clutch
Just make sure that when you finished adjusting things, check the tension on the cable with the bars at different positions, if its too tight the clutch could engage while you turn left or summit
Hope that helps
If you adjust the clutch lever position so that it goes further out, that will allow the clutch to engage more, as the lever wont hit the bar sooner and you will have pulled the cable that little bit further
Adjusting the cable adjuster, or the two screw type bits , will adjust the tension on the cable. If you screw it out it effectively makes the cable sheath shorter taking out any play. Ideally you only want about 2mm play at the pivot of the lever where the gap opens up till the cable starts to pull, or about 10mm play at the end of the lever. If theres still loads of play in the cable, you'll need to take the side panel off and change the adjustment underneath the clutch. While your at it, wind the cable adjuster in most of the way (not all the way) and then change the adjuster underneath the clutch
Just make sure that when you finished adjusting things, check the tension on the cable with the bars at different positions, if its too tight the clutch could engage while you turn left or summit
Hope that helps
- Boonie
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 7:27 am
- Location: Luton, Bedfordshire
- Boonie
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 7:27 am
- Location: Luton, Bedfordshire
- Boonie
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 7:27 am
- Location: Luton, Bedfordshire
GENIUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Utter Genius. I can't thank you both enough. Not only has it resolved the clutch issue (by turning the two screw type thingies) but the bike now starts better, and I no longer have to use as much choke to get it going (bike is restricted so it can take a bit of coaxing at times).
Like I said... GENIUS!!!!!!!
Ah, my first steps to self maintenance... Watch it!!!!! Geez, you guys have filthy minds.
Utter Genius. I can't thank you both enough. Not only has it resolved the clutch issue (by turning the two screw type thingies) but the bike now starts better, and I no longer have to use as much choke to get it going (bike is restricted so it can take a bit of coaxing at times).
Like I said... GENIUS!!!!!!!
Ah, my first steps to self maintenance... Watch it!!!!! Geez, you guys have filthy minds.
Occupation: Nerd (IT), and all round do-gooder. Intersts: Public displays of indecency, oh yeah... and motorcycles. Currently have a 1994 ZXR400 & a 1998 YZF-R1.
And remember...Public ignorance is a government's best friend...!
And remember...Public ignorance is a government's best friend...!
- RedexRobB
- Site Admin
- Posts: 7212
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 7:37 pm
- My Bike: ZXR400L3
- Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
- Boonie
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 7:27 am
- Location: Luton, Bedfordshire
- RedexRobB
- Site Admin
- Posts: 7212
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 7:37 pm
- My Bike: ZXR400L3
- Location: Ipswich, Suffolk
You wont regret buying that book! Did wonders for me! Although i was already more than averagely competent with a spanner and screwdriver, a book like that gave me just that bit extra. Parts of the book showing you how to do different parts includes a ZXR400 in places
Bloody buggers, theyll make a manual for a CBR400, something that was never officially inported to the UK yet they wont make a manual for the ZXR, but they have pics in that book
Anyways, enjoy the book!
- Boonie
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 7:27 am
- Location: Luton, Bedfordshire
I'm an IT network infrastructure engineer so not unaccustomed to using the odd tool. Just have always been 'scared' of engines. Just afraid I'll break it I guess.
But it's time to grow up and get with the program.
But it's time to grow up and get with the program.
Occupation: Nerd (IT), and all round do-gooder. Intersts: Public displays of indecency, oh yeah... and motorcycles. Currently have a 1994 ZXR400 & a 1998 YZF-R1.
And remember...Public ignorance is a government's best friend...!
And remember...Public ignorance is a government's best friend...!