advice on a few issues

[dc1989]

hey guys,
I recently got back my old 400 from a friend, and have had a tonne of issues so far, some from sitting, and some from a total useless apprentice working on it in the past and damaging things

when I got it back, it was running on 2 cylinders until above 6-8000 RPM when it would kick back in. carbs have been ultrasoniced, and then needed new float valve needles as it was flooding like hell on cyl 1 and causing the low rev misfire, its also had new plugs as the old ones were ruined from the bad running, and the stick coils done too as it for some reason had been using zx6 G model coils, that were also broke.....when idling, she now runs like a dream

the problems now come when she is put into gear.....the clutch is 2000 miles old, and its the good old headache, the EBC Kevlar clutch kit.
the bike will not move on the clutch at all with no throttle input, (ive just been riding a K1 gsxr 750 for 6 months and its clutch was brilliant, allowing you to move with no throttle input just on the clutch, even upto 7/8mph) and you need to give it a lot of throttle for it to actually move.....if that's not bad enough, theres a new problem now too

ive just been riding it an hour ago, and coming to junctions and traffic lights, pulling the clutch in causes the bike to suddenly die. it also wont start after the stall unless you give it full choke and then turn the choke off right away once it does fire. a side note on that issue, it is full of fuel, and will not start at all unless it is on reserve.

under 4000 revs when the bike is moving, it has zero power and still chugs as though the clutch is cutting in.

I rode the bike its first 30 miles since ive had it back yesterday, and it was starting fine and clutch issues aside, running ok. now it wont start unless on reserve and full choke, and the only difference from yesterday to today, is that it has a brand new yuasa battery on it.

just a bit more info, the bike was dyno'd at 64HP at the wheel last year before I sold it and still has standard jetting in the carbs. it was also running smooth and the clutch was a lot easier and smoother. the oil wasn't changed long ago, not sure what oil it is though.

any help would be great, as in the week ive had it back now, its cost £350 to get it to work for just 35 miles.....lol.

[CaNsA]

I'm prolly way off the mark but..

Clean tank?
Clean fuel filter?
Clean air filter?
Carb rubbers decent?
What's the idle set to?

[dc1989]

tank is spotless, fuel filter is new, air filter is a new k&n, carb rubbers perfect and the idle is being a little funny.....setting it when the bike is warm, to 1500rpm makes it happy, but then on a cold start, its too low. the idiot apprentice I mentioned, had broken the carb heater rail, so that has had to be blanked off. he had also smacked the screw on carb 4 that braces the throttle cables, and broke the casting on that carb, putting a hole actually into the body, just under the diaphragm. that has been sealed up with a suitable epoxy stuff, cant remember the name sorry, but it was my mechanic mate that gave it to me.

the mixtures are set at 2.5 turns, on the standard jetting.

the stick coils have worked perfectly while its idling or in neutral, so I don't think they would be causing any trouble, I could be wrong though

the clutch may have been installed by the idiot apprentice.....so could have been fitted wrong.

im thinking the fuel tap may be on its way out and could be blocked inside somehow, but not sure from what as the tank has always been spotless and totally rust free inside and out.

these little zxr's aren't half cool and addictive to own.....but they sure are expensive too. lol

[CaNsA]

Fuel tap does sound blocked, or the tap black handle bit might be on the wrong way :/

i would pull the stick coils and try standard coils just to test.

[dc1989]

Ill try it on standard coils and see what happens, wont be able to test that till morning though.

would you recommend a brand new tap or just a repair kit? The filter and all the hoses are new and definitely kink free.

its just weird that while idling or in neutral, its flawless, but as soon as its in gear, its suddenly running horribly

[CaNsA]

Might aswell get a new one, they're not pricey.

[cargo]

hey guys,
and then needed new float valve needles as it was flooding like hell on cyl 1 and causing the low rev misfire,

Did you check or replace the float valve seat o rings ? if they are cracked or damaged you could have all the new float needles you like and you'll still get flooding.

[dc1989]

Negative on the float valve o rings. I got the mechanic mate to order the new float valves, thinking it would be the full repair kit, but all i got was the float valves, at £8 each. Wasn't too happy to be honest.

down low, it just sounds crap and feels almost like a restricted bike under 4000. I know they aren't gonna be great at low revs, but i mean its bad for what one of these bikes should be like.

i just asked my mate, and he put 10w50 oil in it about 1000 miles ago, motul i think he said.

the clutch sounds like it is shaking itself to toad, again, i know they do rattle slightly on the 400, but this is sounding as loud as my old Ducati dry clutch without a cover on it lol. The clutch feels like its bogging the bike down under 4000, but in yet to inspect it.

we used to call this bike Christine, like the car from the film, and she is definitely still being a little toad lol. Still, I've loved having her back this week despite the problems

[dc1989]

i'll replace the float valve seat O-rings in the morning, they are easy enough to get hold of, and cheap too. while im there, I may as well just replace every o-ring inside the carbs, other than the float bowl ones as they are actually fairly new.

i'll get either a new tap or just a repair kit for it and clean the tank for safety sake while its drained

for now I will just adjust the clutch and see if we get any progress that way, if not, then I will replace it for a set of genuine Kawasaki plates instead of the Kevlar ebc ones.

as long as I can keep this repair cheap, i'll be happy. I already had money aside to replace the worn out shock, so if I can still do all the repairs and get the suspension right for the money I have (£150) i'll be a happy bunny.
I'm going to fit a 636 shock, I know they don't directly fit but that's fine, its no problem to modify the undertray and move the battery and other electrics slightly out of the way. if im honest, the loom isn't looking great anyway, so it just gives me chance to find any damage that might be in it at the same time.
I've already got k-tech fork springs and new seals, so when all that is sorted it will feel a lot better. my gsxr was perfectly set up, full Maxton fork internals and a better shock, so it was hard without being harsh and handled beautifully.

since getting back on the 400, my only gripe with it, is that its too damn small lol. I could do with raising the bike up in the back but Id need to do it right as I don't wanna ruin the handling. I only use the bike for fun and to just run around to get parts, so im not bothered about anything other than the bike being fast and handling rigght

[kawazonkey]

I'd repair the fuel tap (and as said before check it's on the right way...monkey boy apprentice might have been at it) and defo change that clutch. Good luck with the old girl.

[dc1989]

going to get the carbs back off now and drain the tank while I remove the fuel tap.
is it worth having a look at the fuel pump too? its always had fuel filters on, but you never know I suppose, some crap may have found its way into the pump and could be slightly clogging it. ive got access to a compressor to blow all the shite out of everything, so i'll probably just whip it off and do that while im working on it anyway.

i'll phone cradley and see if they sell the float valve seats and O-rings separate, as ive already just done the float valve needles, which was a waste of money really when I could have got the kits with the seats and all the O-rings for like, £2 more. (should have just ordered that myself instead of asking my mate to sort that one for me)

[dc1989]

just an update, the running fault is fixed now.

the float valve needle seat O-rings had failed, they was only £1 to replace, so that was brilliant.
also the clutch cable guide was badly digging into the cable, not allowing the cable to move fully, and causing the clutch problem. the clutch actually works as it should do without the damaged guide in place, so again, a brilliant easy fix.

most of the bikes problems were caused by the idiot apprentice, and finding some of these little faults can be the hardest part, as they are so small and stupid half the time that you overlook them,

the forks need servicing, badly, they are all over the place and the ride is super soft. I have new seals and new k-tech springs anyway, so they can go in with new oil, not sure what weight fork oil to use though. im 11stone, and the fork springs are 9NM stiff.
the shock is buggered too, so im replacing that today or tomorrow.

ive replaced my damaged front master cylinder with a 2004 zx-10r one, I had originally bought a new radial, but there was no room for that one, so I went with the newest non radial that I could think of that would be good. it didn't come with a lever though and the zxr one is too short to actuate the M/C properly, so im just waiting on a proper zx10 lever to arrive tomorrow and the brakes will be great again.

[kawazonkey]

Kawasaki used 5w fork oil as standard. I'm just under 12 stone and it works fine for me.