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masterofinsanity wrote:£5 each? from cradley? wemoto are cheaper mate

Not from Cradley, their from the local Kawa shop in Renfrew near Glasgow.
Although Wemoto are cheaper for the shims after adding the postage its about the same cause I was only looking for 2.
I also needed a few o-rings so Kawa dealer it was.

Original thread updated

stug wrote: Not from Cradley, their from the local Kawa shop in Renfrew near Glasgow.
.

Rattling my brain trying to remember his name but can't but in the parts dep' is there a wee guy with Gregory pec's who used to work at Scotbike still there?

I'm sure I used to finance his salary when he was at Scotbike with the amount of parts I used to buy - I know Ian (sales) is now at Victor Divine's.

I know the guy you are talking about but cannot remember his name.
I think I saw him working somewhere in Ayr.
I remember passing my Part 1 on the same day he was there, he was working at Scotbike at the time.
He got a loan of a bike from the shop which was a Suzuki TS125R.
Being quite a short guy he seemed to struggle a bit with the height of the TS and inevitably he dropped it while training for the Part 1 test.
I don't know if he passed it that day as I was up first and left right after.

Can't believe I couldn't remember:

Andy , doh!

Good lad, knows what's what with kwak parts.

I would travel out to Renfrew still to get my parts from there knowing he wouldn't screw them up

Sold a bundle of cable hack boxes there too

shame it cant be done with the head off mine is off, im gonna quicky grind the valves in as the head is off. any other tips while half the engine is in bits

diesel wrote:shame it cant be done with the head off mine is off, im gonna quicky grind the valves in as the head is off. any other tips while half the engine is in bits

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=7979

gonna have a go at this on my old zxr750 engine hopefully next weekend, am i going to need new ignition cover & cam cover gaskets, did you find you needed to replace anything else?

Great thread! I'm about to do this myself for the first time, so your post will definitely help.
however i have a couple questions? Is there any big difference between H and an L for this task? My ride is an L, secondly any tips for Cam chain? that is the other projects I'm taking on.

Did my measurements this weekend and looks like H and L models are the same, I pulled coils to make a little move room. next week is the Cam Chian, so any tips would be great!

Cam Chain can not be done in frame if you replace guides at the same time The pin for the aft gaurd is blocked by the frame so motor has to be rotated forward.

Hi all,
Great thread and im doing my best to follow all the text and pics whilst doing my L1 today in the garden LOL
I have got 4 cyl to TDC useing the pulsar markings and a long thin screw driver in the 4th cyl..
I started to check the clearences on the inlet and exhuast on 4, but no gaps ??

After going off the picture of the cam timing mark pointing outwards on the inlet side, and looking at the pic to where the cam lobes should be, mine are pointing in a differant direction to the pic on this forum.. Are the H2 and L1 the same config or differant.. on mine, if the cam timing mark is pointing towards the front ( inlet side ) Then i have TDC on the 4th cyl

In the end i used the thin screwdriver to find TDC on the 4th piston and not use the timing mark on the cam/chain end ? and found no gap inbetween rocker and lobe ? but other gaps on other inlets and exhuast rockers, all within tolerences unless im doing this all wrong ??

Im stumped ( new at all this ) and the manauals are not very much help, apart from a breif description on how to check for clearences..
Completeley baffled now...
Can anyone help please

your piston goes to TDC twice remember, first time its at TDC it has compressed the fuel and will spark, the second time it has hit TDC it has just exhausted all your combusted petrol.

first time #4 at TDC, #4 inlet cam and exhaust cam point away from each other.
second time #4 at TDC they point towards each other.
you want them to be in the "first time", with ex and in cam lobes pointing away from each other, this how you want them to look to do your valve clearance and timing, when #4 piston is at TDC and the in and ex cam lobes are pointing towards from each other, you can measure the valve clearances for:-
inlet of #2 and #4, exhaust for #3 and #4

then you spin the crank 360 degrees to put #1 piston back to TDC on its compression stroke, now you can measure:-
inlet of #1 and #3, exhaust for #1 and #2

if you then spin the crank 360 degrees again, you will put #4 at TDC on its compression stroke, now you can look for the timing marks to make sure that they face away from each other, and that there are 30 links between the two timing marks.

so in a nutshel, what you have done is put #1 and #4 at TDC, but you are thinking that #4 is on its compression stroke and its not...so when you thought #4 was correct it wasnt, #1 was, and i bet that as a result you were able to measure all your valve gaps correctly, but you will have been scratching your head about it

Hi banner
Yes i had #4 at tdc but in the wrong part of the stroke lol
And yes i was scratching my head till a bald patch showed.
Thanks a lot for explaining it all in english and makeing more simple to understand, much appreciated, after my power nap ( working lastnight ) and the frost has cleared i will attempt to do the valve check now.
I have my chart n pen ready for the readings.

Thanks again..

no probs dude!