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just swapped my motor for one that works....
now the rev counter is red lining at 1/4 throttle in top notch?
are they different rev counters for engines or is it some other problem
i still have my blown motor if i need to swap anything
i have noticed a slight difference in engines where the clutch cable adjuster bolts in...
and i have mass clutch slip
just reoiled with 10 40 castrol ful synth power stuff?
any ideas please on any of the above

SINGATINI wrote:just swapped my motor for one that works....
now the rev counter is red lining at 1/4 throttle in top notch?
are they different rev counters for engines or is it some other problem
i still have my blown motor if i need to swap anything
i have noticed a slight difference in engines where the clutch cable adjuster bolts in...
and i have mass clutch slip
just reoiled with 10 40 castrol ful synth power stuff?
any ideas please on any of the above

My god that's a hornets nest of problems.............

OK I am not aware of any real difference in the clutch cable bracket from model to model

Tell me did you remove the clutch cable bracket from the engine? and in doing so slacken the camchain tensioner bolts ?

You may have created a serious canchain problem if you did

Sound like the reving is a trapped cable check your routing

And Castrol 10/40 full synth oil ......................was it the car oil? or the bike oil?
Fully synthic oil can cause clutches to slip very badly...........IMHO if you chose to start using fully syn oil then it needs to be a bike oil and you need to fit new clutch plates as well ...........my logic is that fully syn oil and semi or mineral oil soaked clutch plates are not compatible...................OR

it could be just that the clutch in your new/replacment engine is fecked.

what i meant was that the rev counter is red lining whilst i am doing say ,70mph
not the engine, it runs to the stop on the rev counter when i have lots of throttle left to play with;
in other words slow idle shows 2000 rpm and 70 mph on the road is showing 16000 rpm when it should be around 9000 i think

i never did anything to the bolts on the cable adjusterjust noticed that they differ from the 2 engines i have.

bike runs lovely all through box and ticks over nice too

and it was bike oil. 4t

with regards to yr clutch cable no reaching. If you dont have a gasket on the clutch cover it can bring the clutch arm forward a lot, which causes problems with the cable etc.. so the slightest difference in gasket thickness would also effect cable length..maybee yr problem. and the clutch arm does wear, which has similar effect.

and i agree with the full synth. Ive never used it on fresh steels/frictions, but it has slipped evry other time i tried it. no probs now with super4 semi or the castrol semi(gps?)

nothing wrong with the clutch cable???
just mentioned the holders on the casings were different on my 2 engines jake

ah right! so if the cable is all adjusted cool, get rid of that oil id say. Clean it all off yr steels and friction plates( check steels for blueing whilst there out ), and presuming there ok, stick semi in her. stronger springs would'nt go ammis either.

did you replace the engine from L to H or vice versa, or import, etc...? miss matched cdi may be to fault. Ive had weird sheite like that when ive swapped the loom or different cdi over on the same engine.

Hi,

By the sounds of it your clutch is slipping a massive amount. I'd say the same. Ditch that crappy oil and put semi or normal thick oil in. Fully synthetic oil is really thin oil designed for racing. I know it's a racing bike but some bikes don't like it. Buy yourself some engine flush and thick oil and your problem should be solved, either that your clutch spings are shagged.

Regards

Rich

putting fully synth oil into a bike thats been used on semi is asking for a slipping clutch, chances are the clutch will slip now whatever oil you use

new oil filter and plates inc springs in just off out to test with putoline four semi in
wish me luck and its raining nice.... new mich 2ct pilots will save me ....i hope

or it could just be a tacho off a different bike.. my zxr tacho reads double when its connected to my zx6r lump.. the zx6r one looks almost identical though.

piccy of new rev counter ?

rev counter is the same as always had
engine is different was normal other day now double reading again
rechecked all connections???

usually battery dying causes jumpy rev gauge.

SINGATINI wrote:rev counter is the same as always had
engine is different was normal other day now double reading again
rechecked all connections???

Hi,

At idle, does the bike read say like... 4000rpm? and when you open the throttle, the needles goes right off the clock? I had this problem once and I got so pissed off with it 1 day that I took a big ol rubber hammer to the rev counter and vwala! fixed.

Regards

Rich

mmmmm nice thought id rather be pissed off with it being wrong 4 now

Defo stick with the semi oil..

I had a similar thing where my clutch slipped from 3rd gear up. No speed at all..

It needed cable adjusting. Thought i had done it right but i hadnt.

My biting point is literally as you move your fingers, was told they need plenty of free play..

But thats racing, presume it would apply to the road??

Hope you get it fixed mate..