www.zxrworld.co.uk

Hi guys, trying to get my fork legs apart is becoming quite an issue, we're scared of breaking anything but on the other hand we feel they are jammed and just will not budge - any tips?

We've tried pushing them towards each other then yanking them apart, and we've tried pulling them apart and then pulling with full pressure, which method is the best? What is getting jammed?! Thanks!:)

Just had this issue with my friends, it was one of the fork bushes pulling over the other, just keep at it and they will eventually go

I had this problem a few years ago.

Luckily I had a spare pair of uppers.

I'll keep going then if not going to damage anything!:)
Unfortunately no spare fork pieces for me

I've encountered the same problem. As already mentioned, the upper bush jams inside the lower bush, rather than pushing against it and shoving the oil seal out. (the two bushes have diameters that are only 1mm different - that's half a millimeter each side.) I had the upper gold fork leg clamped in a bottom yoke which in turn was clamped in a substantial vice. I then used the spindle through the bottom of the fork leg to yank backwards. The two bushes jammed and I had to hit the end of the fork leg with a mallet to release them. I persisted without success. I didn't know at the time what was happening, but after half an hour I realised that the assembly wasn't coming apart. So I reasoned that if the leg wouldn't come out from below, it would have to come out from above. That involved removing the tiny star bit grub screw in the lower fork leg to permit the lower assembly to be unscrewed from the chrome stanchion. The stanchion was then pushed up and out of the top of the gold fork leg. A long rod was then used to drive out the seal from above. However - unscrewing the lower fork leg required that section to be cooked on the gas ring to break the Loctite 636 sealant on the threads, which destroyed the paint. But I was refurbishing everything anyway, so it didn't matter. Loctite 636 must be used on reassembly to eliminate any slack in the threads and also prevent the thin oil leaking up the threads. This action only applied to one fork leg as the other flew apart.

Literally, your accounts is identical to mine! One has come apart after a few pulls, the other won't budge in a vice or anything!

I've been told if I remove the grub screw, then when I unscrew the chrome stanction from the axle part, it will destroy the threads and will need to be re-done! So I'm in 2 minds. I dug the oil seal out of the other leg and it came apart very easily, so I'll try that with the other leg and then see where I'm at. Bloody bike!

Hey! Just think - when this is all fixed and you're on the bike passing all the traffic you'll be pleased with it!!
I dismantled four forks by unscrewing the stanchion from the bottom fork leg with no damage to the threads. Like I say, I cooked the leg on the gas ring and then when I unscrewed the stanchion white powder was released, which was the remains of the Loctite. I wanted the stanchions re-plated, hence the reason for complete dismantling. The oil seal has a steel "skeleton" inside the rubber to hold it's shape, so that may resist removal. Any damage to the chrome will require replating! I wish you success. As with all these things, advice can be offered, but ultimately it will be you making the decision.

The grub screw is a T8 isn't it? Does that need heating up also? My old man snapped X2 of his T8(?) extensions, luckily the one that snapped in the screw, was the one that came apart! Worse case I suppose I could drill it out, really wouldnt want to though! Not up for buying a new stanction - so to heat* the bottom black axle part, what sort of time span and gas knob setting are we talking?

I've managed to get the grub screw out relatively easy by letting the fork soak in a bowl full of kettle water, after a fag and a brew it came out hassle free - now trying to get a good grip on the stanction while turning the axle-part is becoming a different problem - it just won't turn! Haha

Yes, heat is needed on the grubscrew because that is also secured with Loctite. Well done removing it. I also bust a torx bit, but the broken part stayed in the grubscrew, so it had to be drilled out. That requires a specialist drill as the grubscrew is hardened steel. I tapped out both fork legs to M6 and put in ordinary hex head grubscrews.
I cooked the fork leg for about 15 minutes on the gas ring to ensure that the grip of the Loctite was well and truly broken. I clamped the bottom fork in the vice and used a strap wrench on the stanchion (the sort to remove oil filters). Clamping the stanchion in the vice is not recommended as it could distort the tube. A chain wrench could be used with some rubber wrapped round the chrome to protect it.
The only other thing I can suggest to grip the stanchion is something like a split clip-on. This is where effort is required to manufacture something to make progress! I'm sure you can do it.

If you cook it for 15 mins, will that not permanently break the loctite? So just a case of letting it cool down afterwards and then unscrewing the stanction?

Update: right, I've got the two legs apart on both forks - the trick to a fork not separating is to dig the oil seal out (quite tricky, use a screwdriver and a hammer and be very careful not to catch the chrome or gold aluminium) and once the oil seal is out, turn the fork and tap it until the metal washer falls down, then yank and they will always come apart! Worked on both my jammed fork legs, so worth remembering as removing the stanction is a ball ache