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				sump
				Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:07 pm
				by TheG
				I will be sealing up my sump when I get my engine back and I have checked the specified torque for the sump bolts 9.8nm.
Thats great my torque wrench starts at 10nm
so people who have experience of stripping and rebulding engines do you bother with a torque wrench on cases ? dont want to overtighten or warp the sump, i have a feeling these bolts strip easily ?
			 
			
					
				Re: sump
				Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 2:48 pm
				by cargo
				I torque everything.
			 
			
					
				Re: sump
				Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 3:17 pm
				by banner001
				me too, also i cant imagine that there is much diference between 9.8Nm and 10Nm...your tollerance on your gauge is probably about 0.2Nm...
			 
			
					
				Re: sump
				Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 7:54 pm
				by R P Corse
				as do i, last thing you want is something coming undone
			 
			
					
				Re: sump
				Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:59 pm
				by TheG
				ok thanks, il just have to take my time with it as i do not want to strip the threads
also i have stripped threads in the side stand, this is not me the stand fell loose and wouldnt tighten.
what are my options here have the whole drilled out and rethreaded ? or is it possible to rethread the current hole ? thanks
			 
			
					
				Re: sump
				Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:45 am
				by Tirpitz
				I don't torque anything less than 10Nm but then I've been working on bikes long enough to have a feel for what's right at low tightnesses.  The sump isn't something which is going to work itself loose unless you have the bolts ridiculously slack so as long as it is tight enough you will have no problems.  The danger is overtightening if you don't have feel.  What I suggest you do is set your torque wrench to 10Nm and use that setting to tighten up a bolt on the bike which needs more than that - say a caliper bolt.  Loosen and tighten a few times to get a feel for what it feels like.  Then do your sump up using your experience as a guide.  You can always use the torque wrench - which in fact will be better as you have gained your experience with the leverage that gives.  A different length ratchet will feel different.
As for the sidestand - put a longer bolt through it with a locknut on the end.  And in future do a periodic check of all the nuts / bolts / fasteners on your bike every 500 miles.  Otherwise something serious one day will fall off when you are on the move.
			 
			
					
				Re: sump
				Posted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:28 pm
				by TheG
				getting my engine back tomorow but just realised 4 months ago when i first checked valve clearences i turned the engine the wrong way by mistake and it clicked once, i imediatly stopped but just worried something may be damaged.
The engine rotates fine now going the right way
thanks
			 
			
					
				Re: sump
				Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 3:18 pm
				by Tirpitz
				The camchain catches on the tensioner if you turn it the wrong way.  Unlikely you will have damaged anything unless you forced it.  I turned mine the wrong way by accident and it didn't sound nice but it didn't do any harm and I've run mine over 1k since and it runs fine.  Just listen to it while you turn it the right way and if it sounds smooth you're most likely fine.  Just remember not to make the same mistake again.
			 
			
					
				Re: sump
				Posted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:14 pm
				by TheG
				ok thanks