i went to my local garage and they said they can get them for £38 for 4???i dont think there genuine ones tho im not sure.hopefully they do the trick either way.ok ill find a bit of pipe to go onto the airbox i might try and find a clear bit of pipe might make it easier to see when it needs emptying out.
ye i was expecting the price to be higher but ill see what happens they have got to be done either way so if there not right i will just have to get them to order the right ones.
just another update and a few questions,
i have fitted the new inlet rubbers now and it immediatly run better, i no dont have any air leaks from the airbox or carbs, i now have the clip on the needles at the very top so there at there leanest setting with the mixture screws 2 and 1/2 turns out, balanced the carbs again, and it rides so much better now alot more responsive and picks up so much better low down i still think its not 100% and can be better but its so much nicer to ride.
its just ive got a bit of a starting problem now which i dont think is related to the me adjusting the carbs but i might be wrong. to start the bike now i have to hold the throttle fully open otherwise it will just keep spinning over, once its started you have to hold it at full throttle for 2-3 seconds as it splutters almost on two cylinders maybe then after a couple of seconds revs up and you can let the throttle off and its fine, almost like it is having to fill the floats up or something.i think its possibly something to do with my fuel pump or the relay.are these pumps supposed to prime when you turn the ignition on??, mine doesnt you cant feel it tick and when i turn the ignition on 0v at the connector but when i hit the start button 11v aprox.then once the button has been pressed even if the bike isnt running it stays at 11v till i turn the ignition off.is this right??all seems a bit wrong to me could it be the relay playing up?ignition switch?or maybe the fuel pump?or am i just looking at completely the wrong thing?
any help would be great thanks
So is starting it requiring the choke and the throttle fully open? Or just the throttle? Try just the choke with a very small bit of throttle, that works every time for me.
Theres a test in the manual for the fuel pump and relay so check that out. Not entirely sure about the voltage thing, id say thats what is meant to happen.
just another update......
i have now checked and adjusted the float heights there werent all miles out but a little i tried them at 12mm which i think is the standard setting??and it was ok but not much different so i now have them at 13mm with the mixture screws at 3 1/4 turns out and its the best its been so far so im slowly getting there.nearly pulls cleanly from low down to the redline, i dont think im ever going to get it 100% all through the rev range with non standard needles.
the only thing is now that i have a starting problem when the bike is left for a long period of time like overnight, starts fine from hot and short periods. but when its left for a long time it will crank over for a while say 5 seconds then i have to hold the throttle open atleast half way and then it will start but 'splutters' for a couple of seconds before revving up and from then its fine,also smells a bit rich when its first starts might just be me though.
i think i have read somewhere that the float valves seat into little 'o' rings and these can perish letting fuel leak past over time so empting the floats and filling up the chambers..........does this sound right has anyone had this problem??just before i get to stripping the carbs down again i was just wondering if any one had any ideas or if im along the right lines, if it is these little 'o' rings wheres the best place to get them from .......cradleys???and how much are they ??
sorry about the essay and thanks alot for everyones help so far im slowly getting the bike how i want it.
I think standard setting is 11mm for the heights. Only way you will get it perfect is on a dyno.
Difficulty with starting after long periods sounds like the battery to me. And it smelling rich is probably because of the cylinders filling up with fuel while trying to start.
The float needle o'rings are prone to going, new ones from cradley are your best bet. Changing them for new ones will alter your required float heights again, i think, especially if they have work quite a bit. So you might want to consider that when you come to re-assemble.
its not the battery i charged it over night one day and tried it and still the same,
ye i guess a newer o ring will give a different float hieght.ok ill get round to getting some more then and put them back to 11mm and try it see what happens im guessing they wont be expensive for a couple of little rubber o rings.
thanks for your help
dont be shocked if they arent cheap! When i got the shims to do my valve clearances, they guy in the shop thought they were only 50p, when he put the part number in the computer he was a little chocked to see it was 7 quid!
How are the spark plugs? A good clean or new ones might help with starting.
just an update bike starts fine from hot and cold and is running sweet now i think lots of factors had caused my running/starting issues....previous owner obviously hadnt looked after her very well...worn rockers with incorrect valve clearances and incorrect carb setup with air leaks.......slowly cured each proplem and now had it dyno'd and setup properly. she now runs sweet and revs and rides cleanly now just need to wait for some sunny weather.
thanks for everyones help