Anyways, I plan to buy a rear shock......any recommendations on the best/cheapest? I was thinking Nitron?
Cheapest is a ZX6R rear shock, small change to the upper mount, swap the bush from the zxr shock and it fits - Has rebound and compression damping, if you want to be really cool, send it to maxton and have it resprung for your weight and regassed.
GSXR K1/k2/k3 calipers.....do they fit the standard L9 disc?
Yes, but you need spacers as the GSXR Calipers have smaller bolts and the discs don't quite sit central, the spavers look like top hats and are inserted from the inside. I can send you the measurments if you want. I have found the GSR Tokico calipers even better.
Do I need to drain my coolant and replace with just water? I've read this & it says its because its slippery if spilt but is this actually a fact & is it checked before a race? If so, what is it replaced with......tap water or distilled water
Tap water
Do I only have to lockwire the oil drain plug, oil filter and the oil filler cap? (hope so!)
You also have to lockwire the oli filter - Put a jubilee clip around it and lockwire the jubilee clip to the frame or engine, or even a nearby bracket.
What tyres do people normally use. Its called formula 400 & has to use non slicks. Someone said Metzeler Racetecs RR......any good?
Pirelli Diabolo Supercorsa 120/160 are the best choice as they are under constant development for World Superstock 600. Choose SC2 rear, and SC1 or zero front. Some seasons half the races are in the wet, so make sure you have spare wheels with discs and wets, and that the discs are straight !
I bought a set of WoW ( wets on wheels) with discs and it started to rain just before we went out - So I shoved in the wets and found out on the warm up lap that the discs were so warped I couldn't stop properly, let alone race.
Lastly, I've taken the wiring back a little but I don't really know too much so it won't be a total loss wiring race loom. Do people get rid of the radiator fan or not? I also need to remove the key but not sure what I'm doing.......can i race with the key still in and electric start?
Yes, you can race with the key in and the electric start working, I used to lockwire the key in every morning so I didn't lose it ( also done that before)
Remove the fan, it weighs too much, but always watch the temperature when you are stationary. i.e. in the holding area.
The charging / starting system is heavy. You could remove it all including the starter motor, you will need to machine a bung to fit in the starter motor hole - or You can keep everything, but do consider a lithium battery, it saves over a kilo. The alternator is a set of windings held into the casing by three allen bolts and two for the cable, but also a spinning rotor on the end of the crank. This also has it's own tiny oil feed hole, so if you remove the rotor, then you MUST block off this hole ( small alloy drift tapped in) of you will sieze the end crank bearing, as the pressure will drop.
Feel free to post anything you're not sure about,
Regards,
Mark
