OK, you got me. Rear wheel removal.

[Vard66]

I haven't done this yet, and can't wrap my head around it - how the devil does the back wheel come off the ZXR?

I've got the sliding plate off the drivechain side, but cannot for the life of me fathom how it comes off.

Surely the whole axle doesn't slide out, because then the rear caliper wouldn't be supported by anything?
Or is that part of the plan - drop the caliper away so the disc will come free of it?

Yes it's a noob question, but I've not yet done this job, and it only takes the once for me to know how to again.

[masterofinsanity]

you got it

[Vard66]

What, knock the axle through the whole way?

Ok, cool, done.

Was a bit unnerved about doing that.

Cheers, Baz.

[cargo]

[Vard66]

*shrugs*

Laugh if you will, I've got no shame admitting ignorance when I'm doing something I've never done before. Less shame asking for advice about it.

[cargo]

*shrugs*

Laugh if you will, I've got no shame admitting ignorance when I'm doing something I've never done before. Less shame asking for advice about it.

Fair point....................I'm just too used to dropping wheels in and out

On Saturday last it was wet then dry then wet again and then back to dry again.............thats a lot of wheel changes in the space of 20 minutes.................made the right call in the end

[Scott221]

When re-fitting the wheel, get a block of wood that will lift the wheel to the correct height (level with the spindle holes). Put the block of wood in the middle of the paddock stand directly underneath where the wheel would normaly sit. Then simply rock the wheel up on the plank of wood and slid your spindle through. Makes things alot more simple rather than trying to balance the wheel on your foot!

[Vard66]

When re-fitting the wheel, get a block of wood that will lift the wheel to the correct height (level with the spindle holes). Put the block of wood in the middle of the paddock stand directly underneath where the wheel would normaly sit. Then simply rock the wheel up on the plank of wood and slid your spindle through. Makes things alot more simple rather than trying to balance the wheel on your foot!

*nods*

I had thought about that when I was getting it off, to stop the pressure on the axle itself, but wound up using my foot anyway as there was nothing that was the right thickness to go under it just lying around in my garage.

[jake]

I still find it a pain to change he rear wheel. I now actually take the rear caliper off its hanger. I find this helps alot.

[cargo]

If you look at the bolt that holds the rear caliper to the torque arm you'll see that it has a nyloc type nut on it also there should be a split pin or R clip in it. the reasons for this are that the bolt should be left loose enough so the the caliper can pivot on that bilt. This helps with wheel removal and replacment.

Top tip from cargo is that when I have pushed the caliper pistons back I use a bit of an old cable tie folded back on it's self so that it acts like a spring to hold the pads out of the way when guiding the disc back into place. Once the wheel is lifted back up into an approx position with chain loop onto sprocket I allow it to tip to one side a little that kind of jams it in place and helps holds it while I slide the spindle in from the right once the spindle is through the caliper hanger and part way into the wheel it will support the weight while I lift the sheel stariht and slide it on through
The old cable tie will eight have ben pushed out by the disc or can be pulled out.

Never needed a block of wood yet


BTW the caliper bolt on the torque arm needs to allow the caliper to move during chain adjustment as well.