Ewetea wrote:I have three ZXR’s and they all have the same problem: the clutch operating levers (ref 13102) have indentations on the forks where they engage the end of the clutch push rod (ref 46102).
Clutch operating lever problem
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Clutch operating lever problem
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- masterofinsanity
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Re: Clutch operating lever problem
Ewetea wrote:I assumed that this was the reason for the cable being fully adjusted, although finding neutral while stationary was difficult because the clutch still did not seem to be fully disengaged. So I treated one bike to a new lever, but was dismayed to find it made little difference. My primary concern is that the lever does not seem to start in an appropriate position. I would expect it to start with the clevis behind the centre line of the shaft (towards the back of the bike), and swivel to an equivalent position on the other side (towards the front of the bike). This would be achieved by pulling the clutch cable sufficiently to disengage the clutch.
Looking up at the lever from beneath the bike, this is where I would expect the lever to start:
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Re: Clutch operating lever problem
i have this on mine if anything mine is further forward than yours, done the same, new arm and the feel at the lever is vague and wooly. i wondered if new clutch springs would help but the bike is an h2 but the engines i have i dont know whether they are h or l, when i looked at replacing the springs they are different part nos. from ebc.
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Re: Clutch operating lever problem
My clutch arm is further forward than that as well, where my cable is at the limits of its adjustment on both ends. It has never been a problem apart from the other day when I have developed a clutch slip (seems to not fully re-engage properly).
I have had the clutch apart and the plates are within limits. Seems to disengage ok tho (sometimes a slight jump when engaging 1st).
I'm interested in why my lever is so far forward, pretty sure my cable shouldn't be on the limits at both ends and is part of my slipping problem
Sorry I cant offer any solutions lol
I have had the clutch apart and the plates are within limits. Seems to disengage ok tho (sometimes a slight jump when engaging 1st).
I'm interested in why my lever is so far forward, pretty sure my cable shouldn't be on the limits at both ends and is part of my slipping problem
![:smt017](./images/smilies/017.gif)
Sorry I cant offer any solutions lol
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Re: Clutch operating lever problem
I'v made a little headway on my clutch, the slip was completely un-related to the operating lever. I did however find the cause of the level being so far forward. There seems to be an awful lot of play in the 'pull rod' inside the casing that pulls the plates apart. this means that when the operational level is offered up, the cam takes up the slack in the 'pull rod' and therefore starts further forward than the 90 degs where its supposed to.
I think that the problem is that the small bearing inside the front plate is loose and has a small tide mark on it where its obviously been rubbing. I dont know if i'm just being a bit of a spanner, but if I replace the bearing (which I plan on doing anyway) and it sits snug in the casing it will still allow play in the 'pull rod'. It looks like it almost needs a shim behind it to take up the slack?? Any thoughts?
I have tried to attach some pictures as i'm not sure how well iv explained this!
1) Push rod fully in (where its supposed to be)
![Image](http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j111/captain_larry/Untitled-2.jpg)
2) Push rod after taking slack up (causing the cam to rotate round)
![Image](http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j111/captain_larry/Untitled.jpg)
3) Wear on bearing
![Image](http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j111/captain_larry/Untitled-1.jpg)
I think that the problem is that the small bearing inside the front plate is loose and has a small tide mark on it where its obviously been rubbing. I dont know if i'm just being a bit of a spanner, but if I replace the bearing (which I plan on doing anyway) and it sits snug in the casing it will still allow play in the 'pull rod'. It looks like it almost needs a shim behind it to take up the slack?? Any thoughts?
I have tried to attach some pictures as i'm not sure how well iv explained this!
1) Push rod fully in (where its supposed to be)
![Image](http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j111/captain_larry/Untitled-2.jpg)
2) Push rod after taking slack up (causing the cam to rotate round)
![Image](http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j111/captain_larry/Untitled.jpg)
3) Wear on bearing
![Image](http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j111/captain_larry/Untitled-1.jpg)