Alright lads?
My bike isn't starting at the mo, hence, was hoping some of you may be able to offer me some advice!
A bit of history first:
* Brought L2 model in August last year. My first big bike, 32k on the clock, owner was using it on a daily commute but was in good condition. However, i knew i would need to replace bits as wear & tear cropped up. Bike rode really well and no apparent probs.
* Put about 600 miles on her when she started losing all revs when i came to a stop with the clutch pulled all the way in. Still rode ok apart from that. Eventually started backfiring and then wouldn't start at all.
* Put into P&H motorcycles in Brighton who had her in their workshop for over a week trying to find the problem. All electrics were thoroughly tested and working fine. Eventually found that the wiring loom had corroded and needed replacing. Job done (October) - bike was on top again
I'd decided to leave my bike in my Nan's garage from end of November until end of Feb as i knew i wouldn't use it much etc. Bike was fine when i put her in storage. I didn't get time to clean any of the bike or spray with GT85 etc.........i'd ridden in wet conditions to my Nan's. Stupid i know.
Anyway, i manage to see bike at end of December so it'd been idle for a month. Took about 5 clicks of the start button to get her going. Everything was cool.
I went back to my Nan's last weekend. The weather was good so i thought i'd go for a spin. I sprayed some muck-off and rinsed with quite a bit of cold water. Sprayed some GT85 to get ride of any moisture and let it evaporate. Bike started on 2nd attempt Went for a quick spin just around town and she rode as well as ever.
Stopped for an hour. It had started to rain slightly by this point so bike was exposed outside. Went back and she started first time. Side stand up, drop into 1st and it cuts out. Tried again numerous time's and it wouldnt' start. Eventually put the choke full-bore and she starts but was idling at 6k rpm! Adjusted the idle bolt a little which made a difference but dropped into first and she was revving between 1.5 - 6 for no reason. I had to push her home in the end.
The next day i had a play and she started (again with choke full-bore). I changed the throttle cable adjuster slightly but not much difference. When she was running, if i blipped the throttle, she revved but it didn't seem half as responsive as usual.
She's back in my Nan's garage until i can get back upto Worcester at the end of Feb. Hopefully by then i might be able to have some idea of what it is!
Any ideas? The battery was fully charged and tank about 1/3rd full. Knowing that it isn't the wiring loom this time, i still think it is electrical maybe? I've read in the Haynes manual for Kawasaki Fours that 'erratic running faults and problems with the engine suddenly cutting out in wet weather can attributed to to leakage from the high tension (HT) lead and spark plug cap.' Obviously you are then supposed to clean it because of the accumulation of mud and grime around the lead and cap. Any idea where the HT lead and spark plug cap are? I'm guessing near the bottom of the bike?
But then i guess it could be a problem with the petrol pump? Hence, why it wasn't blipping as well as usual? Could be an air leak causing the erratic running? other stuff such such as oil & coolant is topped up.
Bear in mind that she could do with a good service to be honest! How much are you guys paying for a thorough service?
Sorry about the essay!!!
Sigs
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Another bad starter thread..........
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MJJ400
Idling up at 6k sounds like stuck throttle cable, missing throttle close cable, or stuck carb slides to me. Certainly not electrical.
If it were me, I'd take the bike out for a run somewhere you can keep it above 6k for a while - dual carriageway, motorway etc. Get some heat into everything, may well solve itself.
Failing that, or if you have time on your hands, give the carbs a good clean. Two ways of doing this:
1) Lazy way - take tank and airbox off. Spray carb cleaner (available from Halfords etc) into the bits of the carbs you can see while bike is running. It'll run for 30 secs or so with no fuel tank.
2) Better way, take carbs off and clean properly with carb cleaner and toothbrush. Remove float bowl covers, and do the jets too.
Oh, and WD40 over the bit where the throttle cables join the carbs will help, too.
Hope this helps,
Martin.
If it were me, I'd take the bike out for a run somewhere you can keep it above 6k for a while - dual carriageway, motorway etc. Get some heat into everything, may well solve itself.
Failing that, or if you have time on your hands, give the carbs a good clean. Two ways of doing this:
1) Lazy way - take tank and airbox off. Spray carb cleaner (available from Halfords etc) into the bits of the carbs you can see while bike is running. It'll run for 30 secs or so with no fuel tank.
2) Better way, take carbs off and clean properly with carb cleaner and toothbrush. Remove float bowl covers, and do the jets too.
Oh, and WD40 over the bit where the throttle cables join the carbs will help, too.
Hope this helps,
Martin.
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Jamz
- zxr400 oc member
- Posts: 2034
- Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2002 4:21 pm
- My Bike: Kawasaki ZX9-R C2
- Location: Alvechurch, Near Birmingham
- Contact:
I'd agree with MJJ400 on the reving thing - mine did something similar recently before i had the throttle cables replaced (about £12.50 each for 2 of them). Yours does sound borderline like the slides could be sticking though, so it's well worth checking that out first!
As for your revs dropping and cutting out when you come to a standstill... I think just about all bikes will need the idle adjusted every so often. You'll find as most bikes get older they will idle at normal speed when you start them, then after you've been for a blast and they're warm they idle a few thousand revs higher! I've made the mistake of re-adjusting the idle speed while it's warm, then found it won't idle when cold!
If you take off the tank and airbox, you'll see the 4 HT leads going onto the tops of the sparkplugs - take each one off and have a good look at it - even a tiny crack or slightly loose connection can cause running problems.
As for your revs dropping and cutting out when you come to a standstill... I think just about all bikes will need the idle adjusted every so often. You'll find as most bikes get older they will idle at normal speed when you start them, then after you've been for a blast and they're warm they idle a few thousand revs higher! I've made the mistake of re-adjusting the idle speed while it's warm, then found it won't idle when cold!
If you take off the tank and airbox, you'll see the 4 HT leads going onto the tops of the sparkplugs - take each one off and have a good look at it - even a tiny crack or slightly loose connection can cause running problems.
