Engine rebuild guide??

[Vaughn]

Hey
I have an engine I plan on stripping down and rebuilding, it has no head on it at the moment so I want to concentrate on the bottom end and cylinders/ pistons for now

I've had a look through the manual and it's a bit vague and all over the place.
I was just wondering if any of you know of a good guide for stripping down and rebuilding a zxr engine
The manual would probably suffice but I was looking for a step by step guide with pictures maybe.
And a list of things I should be checking and maybe seals to replace and things

Anyone got any ideas??
Thanks for reading

[banner001]

things to replace if doing a "full" rebuild:-
all gaskets/o-rings/seals/bearing shells/circlips/mounting rings/knackered screws/filters/springs/clutch/valve seats/valve re-face.

get your conrods x-ray'd if available to check for hairline cracks, clean up your pistons and get them balanced to one another, balance the conrods, then get the crank lightened and balanced.

get the bore diameters checked for roundness and for diameter, get them honed if possible, if not do a +0.5mm rebore (requires new oversized pistons), budget £700-£1000.

[Vaughn]

Spot on answer cheers banner. Quite a lot of work then lol
I'll get started stripping it down as soon as possible.
Cheers bud

[banner001]

Spot on answer cheers banner. Quite a lot of work then lol
I'll get started stripping it down as soon as possible.
Cheers bud

if things are broken, then it takes a bit of time to fix them, if its just a quick dissassemble and re-assemble with new parts its not the time thats the problem, its the money...i decided to wait until i had enough to buy all the parts before i started the rebuild. didnt wanna get half way through and have to leave it for 3 months waiting for more funds.

use assemble lube (its wonderful sticky red oil) when re-assembling anything that is in metal-metal contact, so valve guides, small/main/big ends, piston rings/bores, valve components, all internal bearings, transmission gears...the lot!

i found it relatively easy to take my engine apart, and that was a 20valve 1000cc yam lump

take lots of pictures, get a lot of plastic boxes (wont leak oil) and some permanant marker pens and make sure that you mark everything that you took off. if things are supposed to be kept in a certain way - cable tie them together in order.

ANY damage/scoring/wear, replace the item, dont skimp on your engine, ive told you what is a reasonable amount to expect to pay, dont try to do it for £50 because it will fail

[Vaughn]

Good advice there bud.
Asda are good for plastic containers, I bought a 16 piece set for £5 and there are all different sizes, also picked up a pack of sharpies for writing on the boxes

Yeah I get what your saying about not skrimping and trying to do it for £50, if I was gonna do that then it wouldn't be worth taking it apart in the first place.

I want to go out and get new pistons the lot but I will have to get a price list together first before I commit to anything.
I bet all of the seals alone will cost a fortune, next to find a supplier.
Cradleys don't stock bits for 89 H1 probably have to use cmsnl but it takes ages to ship the parts over.
I guess there's no difference in components between L and H model engines, from what I've seen so far they have been identical.

Right then time to get stuck into the fiches for me then
Thanks

[cargo]

I'd be very surprised if H1 engine gaskets or seals were different from H2 or L for that matter.

[banner001]

bearing shells look like different part numbers...

[ross46]

for plastic boxes try your local corner shop that sells haribo and ask if the can keep you some of the empty boxes, i bought 20 for a pound of my local shop and they fitted everything imaginable, even my camshafts fitted in one

[Vaughn]

I'd be very surprised if H1 engine gaskets or seals were different from H2 or L for that matter.

I've been buying h2 parts because h1 have been like rocking horse pooh, not had any troubles yet. I think the engine I have now is L5 and apart from the oil cooler everything has been a straight swap, can't see any difference so far, not had a butchers inside the engine yet though.
Like you say there can't be much different

bearing shells look like different part numbers...

That's interesting I'll take a look at that. I'm gonna have to print off the fiches and go over them with a fine tooth comb and see what differences I can find.

for plastic boxes try your local corner shop that sells haribo and ask if the can keep you some of the empty boxes, i bought 20 for a pound of my local shop and they fitted everything imaginable, even my camshafts fitted in one

Good idea that they are nice size boxes, I'll ask next time I'm in the shop
Cheers