Hi there I have just got a zxr 400 h1 last week and its now in the garage due to over heating problems. The man at the garage called me today to tell me to come down so I did & there was black silicone on the oil feed line. He peeled it off and some of the oil feed line come off with it, Now he says I need to get a Cylinder head complete. Why is this for why cant I just but a new oil feed line ?
P.S Does any one have a oil feed line or a cylinder head complete I dont need the shims & all that Thanks
Oil Feed Line + Cylinder Head
Moderator: Moderators
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Flipflop9000
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Jul 02, 2012 11:47 pm
- My Bike: Flailing Cow
Re: Oil Feed Line + Cylinder Head
Hi
These have a big problem with the rotary splint with in the oil splint lines, the rotary splint system is not the best in the 400s and really tricky to work on, the problem is you just can't replace the line because the split is in the head and is physically bonded to the head and these have a tendency of piercing the oil lines, hence the reason for a new head.
If you're taking the head off, which you will need to do, then a good mod is some "singh grooves" like these, easy to do with a file yourself and some feeler gauges
with 3 grooves per cylinder is that there is very useable torque from 1500 rpm to 6500 rpm or more. Keep in mind that I have a racing header on this engine. The engine will idle smoothly to below 500 rpm, but is limited to 650 rpm by the ECM. I can idle it while driving in 2nd gear below 500 rpm without it complaining too much. There is a fantastic throttle response now. If you are driving in 1st gear at 1200 rpm and hit the throttle
Ath the end of the day the cylinder head isn't actually that precision made, it is a hunk of metal at the end of the day, the one thing to watch out for is to not hit the valves, you can get a few more HP if you do the valves on the combustion side, but get it wrong and your seats will leak.
These have a big problem with the rotary splint with in the oil splint lines, the rotary splint system is not the best in the 400s and really tricky to work on, the problem is you just can't replace the line because the split is in the head and is physically bonded to the head and these have a tendency of piercing the oil lines, hence the reason for a new head.
If you're taking the head off, which you will need to do, then a good mod is some "singh grooves" like these, easy to do with a file yourself and some feeler gauges
with 3 grooves per cylinder is that there is very useable torque from 1500 rpm to 6500 rpm or more. Keep in mind that I have a racing header on this engine. The engine will idle smoothly to below 500 rpm, but is limited to 650 rpm by the ECM. I can idle it while driving in 2nd gear below 500 rpm without it complaining too much. There is a fantastic throttle response now. If you are driving in 1st gear at 1200 rpm and hit the throttle
Ath the end of the day the cylinder head isn't actually that precision made, it is a hunk of metal at the end of the day, the one thing to watch out for is to not hit the valves, you can get a few more HP if you do the valves on the combustion side, but get it wrong and your seats will leak.
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Tirpitz
- zxr400 oc member
- Posts: 766
- Joined: Sun Dec 12, 2010 2:45 pm
- My Bike: Kawasaki ZXR400L4
- Location: Doncaster, South Yorkshire
Re: Oil Feed Line + Cylinder Head
ZXR400 L4, purple / black / pink
Hel braided hoses
Pirelli Diablos
Ohlins steering damper
A16 carbon fibre exhaust can
Nitron Sport shock
Hel braided hoses
Pirelli Diablos
Ohlins steering damper
A16 carbon fibre exhaust can
Nitron Sport shock
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chrissy400r
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 1:50 pm
- My Bike: kawasaki zxr 400
- Location: yorkshire
Re: Oil Feed Line + Cylinder Head
hi just a quick question i did the oil and filter on my zxr 400 the other day and filled it up to the just below the max line on the window...i ran the bike up to temp this morning and had a quick look at the oil level and for some reason the level of the oil is above the window. if the head gasket was on its way out could it be possible for the water to get into the engine or any other liquid from the bike. thanks chris