Water Pump Broken?

[Tirpitz]

I am losing coolant from the water pump area. I've traced the leak to a little hole in the underside of the pump and according to the workshop manual if coolant leaks from here the water pump seal is shot and the pump needs replacing . You can see the hole here

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Do you agree?

If so, is it worth getting a used one from a breakers or should I buy a new one? Presume Cradley's can still supply a new one, if not that question is academic.

[RedexRobB]

http://www.zxrworld.co.uk/images/Lseries/lradiator.gif

If its the seal then you may as well just buy a new one, part 92055C if im not mistaken.

[Tirpitz]

Rob, it's not the seal. The coolant isn't coming from between the cover and the pump, or from between the pump and the crankcase. It is coming out of the little hole on the underside of the pump body. See page 3-7 of the Service Manual, if you have it. There is a photo of the pump illustrating the hole, which is properly called the Drainage Outlet Passage. According to the oracle "Check the drainage outlet passage at the bottom of the water pump body for coolant leaks. If the mechanical seal is damaged, the coolant leaks through the seal and drains through the passage. Replace the water pump unit." My understanding is that the 'mechanical seal' is not one of the O-rings you can see in the exploded plan but is an internal seal in the pump unit. Once it's gone the pump is shagged. Otherwise the manual would just say replace the O-ring.

They are available new BTW, I rang Cradley. £175, minus the Owners Club discount

[Mori Man]

Yep, humped pump.

Not a part many breakers take off a motor unless the engine is damaged but got to be worth asking about.

[Mori Man]

Checked the part number (49044-1063) on it and pump is unique to the 400

If your going to go down the new route I can get one for 117GBP + shipping (could confirm that cost by pulling one off a motor and weighing it up)

As a guide to shipping a 1Kg package by 3 day express is: 20.20 GBP with tracking or as low as 2~3 week EcoAir with no tracking at 7.80 GBP

Let me know,

MM!

[Tirpitz]

Hi MM, I was hoping you'd be along. There's gotta be something wrong with this country when it's cheaper to get a part flown in from Japan than to buy it from down the road

I was doing a bit of searching online last night for a 2nd hand pump and had reached the conclusion that you state - it's not the sort of thing a breaker is generally going to strip off an engine. And it's going to well used when it is.

PM on its way

[cargo]

Defo internal seal is toast................only solution is to replace the whole pump.



As for parts prices...................I've just bought a genuine Ford clutch kit for my Transit it cost me £175 it is a real genuine Ford part it comes from a Ford factory in Turkey


genuine Ford dealer....................£350 plus

The guy I got it from buys stuff from Ford but he buys it direct from a dealer or possibly even the factory in Turkey.............the UK Ford operation is cut out of the deal.


I believe it's called a fecking rip off

[Mori Man]

I believe it's called a fecking rip off

Yup , the same 1Kg package coming from UK to Japan 48.75 GBP - same plane same fuel same handlers , WTF ! :smt013

[gavinfdavies]

i'll try this post again...

i have seen some electrical water pumps about, the benefit being they're a tad cheaper, and run independantly of engine speed. you can also spend a little extra to get an electrical controller for the temperature & fan speed, so you can ditch the thermostat.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorcycl ... _Pumps/423

[Mori Man]

Thing is Gav , a water pump is a low stress item - all its doing is pumping water/coolant mix around the system regardless of speed, impeller design works as well at low revs as it does at high revs

Why the seals fook up is lack of coolant maintenance - as anti-freeze goes off it becomes acidic , its anti-sludge properties break down , its anti-corrosive properties breakdown so all together the seals are exposed to a very unfriendly cocktail.

Regardless , you should change the coolant every 2yrs - I know they call it long life but guess what, that is its life !

If you run your block with the wrong ratio this also causes problems not just cooling! Some might even run with just water as they don't use in the winter and this kills anything in the cooling system as tap water has way too many heavy metals and crap in it - for longevity you should go distilled water + coolant or buy a premix

It's horses for courses - you race an engine and a couple of seasons is fine , you only ever short term own a model then a couple of seasons is OK too, it's us that want to keep our pride n joys who need to heed service schedules.

IMHO

MM!

PS. BAZ , when you do the upgrade - can we get an auto fookin spell checker ! Now at my 6th edit