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Ok chaps, I have really tried to resolve my carb issues before posting up questions every day but now I need some help!
This l3/l4 I bought as a none runner is slowly coming together and once the carbs and fork seals have been sorted, I hoping to get her mot'd
Bike was initially a none starter so commenced by doing a good "banner" strip,clean and examination with the carbs internally pretty clean to start with so assembled it & got it to run..... but badly.The pilot screws were adjusted to 2 turns out.
Replaced the o rings at the float valve's as it was overflowing and did my best to balance the carbs whilst trying to keep the motor running (hanging revs & would not idle by itself).Squirted carb cleaner at the carb holders and revs rose a lot so ordered new ones from Cradleys.
With much excitement,after smearing some engine oil on the clamp side of the holders to help get them on, I fitted the new holders this morning but that did not seem to help anything so then adjusted the pilot screws to 2.5 turns out which seemed to make a positive difference in that the bike revved nice & sharply but still the revs hung a lot but now not always. Still could not get the thing to idle.This was after trying to get the carbs rebalanced the best I could. This was all with the choke closed.
Something told me to squirt some more carb cleaner at the new holders at lo & behold, the revs went up again indicating it still had an air leak
I am determined to get this sorted!!!!! Would some rtv sealant help do you think around the new holders?

Did you replace the o-rings inside the holders?

No Miles, I didn't know there were any except the ones which look moulded into the base of the carb holder itself and seal against the manifold! Do you have a part number I can take a look at? Now you have me really baffled

I have just noticed that there are two variants of carb holders with the one using the o ring you mentioned. Mine is the holder you squeeze through the alloy collar which appears to have the "built in" o ring. Part no: 16065 1240.

change to the later type .. its spendy but worth it

ive tried all sorts to seal the old type over the years, nothing lasts.

zimm wrote:change to the later type .. its spendy but worth it

ive tried all sorts to seal the old type over the years, nothing lasts.

Cheers Zimm-wish I had known that before buying this new set! Did I do the right thing by smearing oil on the inner surface so that the carbs fitted easier?

Well I have tried out of desperation firstly applying a thin coat of grey rtv sealant between the new carb boot and head and still had a vacuum leak so then applied the same to the inner part of the boot which the carb slides into. Despite making sure the boots although new, were clean and waiting 24 hours before testing, I still have the damn vacuum leak so I have progressed no further
It seems rather poor that despite buying original parts, they leak so It now seems I need to take Zimms advice and try the newer boot which uses the o ring arrangement. Tis beginning to wind me up so any tips re vacuum leaks would be welcome!

Are your vacuum hoses all ok?

Miles wrote:Are your vacuum hoses all ok?

I would think so Miles as when the carb balancer tubes are fitted, it's still the same symptoms. Its worth a check though so will replace the hoses or find some sort of rubber caps which fit snuggly!

Fitted the new boots which Mr Posty bought to day (better ones with the o-ring) You can see they are a better design but holy crap, they aint fixed the problem At first throttle felt really responsive until it warmed up then the hanging returned as well as none existent idling. I did manage to check the balancing which was unbelievably spot on.
So...after spending more, dosh, the fight goes on! I can understand why people sell bikes which have carb issues!

I'm having the same issues.. My pilot jets were blocked. They have to be cleaned so you can see right through them..

Think 2 of my Needle springs are soft so doing the float height check using the tube and drain screw method..



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