Bike won't start after running

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rmkd177
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Re: Bike won't start after running

Post by rmkd177 »

banner001 wrote: i also think that your concept of the internal workings is lacking.
I dont know 'deswilkie' that well but do know he is is an accomplished road racer and prepares his own bikes for the irish roads and short circuits so will be a very competent mechanic and spent plenty of time and money on the dyno.
It will be nice 'banner' to see if you gain some knowledge from spending time and money having your bikes carburation set up when you take to the track as it appears you are very limited,and resort to quotes from other forums not first hand information.I earn my living repairing motorcycles but mainly tuning engines and preparing race bikes, as you know as i remember repairing your gearbox ? i also remember you phoning me later with the problem that 'every time i put it in gear it stalls'....only to find out that you hadnt adjusted the clutch cable properly. :pmsl ...and like a gentleman phoned me back to appologise.....so... mabe its 'your concept of internal workings that is lacking' ?
You can write and quote and put random irrelevant diagrams but the fact is...turn the 'pilot air screw' or 'pilot screw' or 'slow running screw' OUT to weaken the mixture or IN to weaken it.
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Re: Bike won't start after running

Post by cargo »

I think a conclusion has been reached and the OP has his answer.

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banner001
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Re: Bike won't start after running

Post by banner001 »

Deswilkie wrote:Have a read of the Kawasakiworld post the you put up (and obviously didn't read). A member there (hubz14) explains it for you.

Also, can I point you in the direction of an excellent book on English and grammar called 'Eats Shoots and leaves'. I need to prove nothing to you and I'm done with this subject.

Good luck to the op, should get it sorted easy enough.
i did read the post, you obviously didnt scroll down past post #2 where he gets derided for being incorrect...
"WRONG On Keihin CVK 36 and 40mm carbs the pilot screws (yes, proper terminology is pilot not low speed) RICHEN the mixture the further you turn them out! Turning them out ADDS fuel to the pilot circuit. We're talking Keihins NOT Mikunis. CVKs NOT flatslides. Just like going from a 35 to a 38 pilot jet ADDS fuel. From a 35 to a 38 pilot jet is a 1.5 x fuel adding factor. Popping on decel, lean on the pilots and you turn them OUT to add fuel on the pilot circuit. Don't believe me? Go to Factory Pros website and start reading up on how to tune a CVK carb.

I jetted my ZRX1200 in OVER 55 different air filter, air box and exhaust combinations. It required over 150 different jetting, pilot and needle changes. Yeah I know my way around CVKs like the back of my fucking hand. If you want to debate me on CVKs make sure you leave the bullshit jibberish out of the conversation. Clear concise english with proper grammar, and you'll get a response from me. Keep talking that Sesame street, Dr. Sues toad and you'll be ignored. "
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"It seems hubz14 can't stop talking nonsense even if he wanted to, after googling his username I've found quite an interesting post about him and his various aliases.

It seems he infiltrates forums and talks crap until he's banned, (sooner rather than later please mods)"
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"Dispute this biotch!

From Factory pro on TUNING CVK CARB!!!

Quote:
4. Idle and low rpm cruise

Fuel Screw setting (AKA mixture screws)
There is usually a machined brass or aluminum cap over the fuel screws on all but newer Honda. It's about the diameter of a pencil. Cap removal details. Newer Honda carbs have no caps, but use a special "D" shaped driver, usually supplied in the carb recal kit. We do have them available separately, too. 800 869-0497 to order -
Set for smoothest idle and 2nd gear, 4k rpm, steady state cruise operation. Set mixture screws at recommended settings, as a starting point. For smoothest idle, 2nd gear 4000 rpm steady state cruise , and 1/8 throttle high rpm operation. (pj tuning information)
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level (but, you've "fixed" the fuel level in Step 3 - which you have already done!) AND pilot jet size are the primary sources of mixture delivery during 4000 rpm steady state cruise operation.
If lean surging is encountered, richen mixture screws (turn out) in 1/2 turn increments. Alternative pilot jets are supplied when normally required.
Pilot fuel mixture screw settings, float level and pilot jet size also affect high-rpm, 0 to 1/8 throttle maneuvers. Too lean, will cause surging problems when the engine is operated at high rpm at small throttle openings! Opening the mixture screws and/or increasing pilot jet size will usually cure the problem.
NOTE: A rich problem gets worse as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm drops below the set idle speed, then rises up to the set idle speed, the low speed mixture screws are probably set too rich: try 1/2 turn in, to lean the idle mixture.
NOTE: A lean problem gets better as the engine heats up.
If the throttle is lightly "blipped" at idle, and the rpm "hangs up" before dropping to the set idle speed, and there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm, the mixture screws are probably too lean: try 1/2 turn out, to richen mixture. Be sure there are no intake leaks and the idle speed is set at less than 1000 rpm!

Again turning them OUT richen the damn low speed pilot circuit! CVK 36 and 40s have the pilot screw FORWARD of the float bowl."
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"According to this diagram...that's your idle screw. Idle screw controls air/fuel ratio at idle. Your jet controls fuel flow rate, hence why Keihin sells alternative jets with ALL of their tuning kits. Got that right from their NA site. Perhaps I shall look at the Japanese site as well...but I don't speak nor read Japanese so....

Now, if you look closely, the reason they are saying it "richens" the mix, is both air and fuel are traveling down the passageway in the carb body. Look where the air inlet is. Air travels past the pilot jet, where it picks up fuel vapor, and this all passes out the tiny hole in the carb that controls your idle."
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"There is no air screw per-say. It is an inlet that grabs fuel on the way by from the pilot jet. It's an air jet. You control fuel rate with the pilot jet. You control the entire mix with the idle mix screw."
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"It's not an air screw it's a mixture screw.

Screwing the mixture screw out doesn't add more air moving faster into the straw holes, mixing with your piss, undoing the screw allows more air/fuel mixture to be drawn past the taper into the cylinder.

More air/fuel mixture means the mixture is richer.

No glass, no rocks, no water, no straw, piss acid or anything else."
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"There is fuel coming out of this needle. The pilot jet feeds out at this point in the bore...or so I can clearly see in the above referenced image I posted. Without the carb body in my hand, I can't really say otherwise, but the cast-in channels show this to be the case here.

This supports the "richer" mix when it's backed out. It is adding more fuel. Air is also passing via this as well, hence "mixture". The air jet is open at the intake of the bore, no needle there."

...and not a single post in support of hubz14, again, you have failed to show any proof, just your opinion, which you value over the opinions of others, even though it is folly to do so as you dont offer any proof of your hypothesis. ill be taking the carbs off my track bike today/tomorrow and ill have a look.

and with a nod towards my grammar/use of english, im a published research scientist with research published in PNAS, Nature and Angewandte Chemie (to name a few) as well as a 62,000 word thesis which had a grand total of 11 spelling errors...i assume the best paper you produces gets flushed away...
UK ZXR400 L3 (1993) - Fully restored and on the roads, my green beast!
JPN ZXR250 A2 (1990) - Revs to 19,200rpm... 'nuff said :smt003
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